Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
It was Vardzia, a troglodyte city of a remote antiquity, which the
Georgians and Armenians believe to have been founded in the twelfth
century by the father of Queen Thamar, and to have been completed by
that princess. They say it was a favourite residence of Thamar; you
are shown the cave in which she resided during winter, the terrace
where she spent the summer days, the chapel where her brilliant
court assembled, even, it is affirmed, the tomb where her remains
were placed. This last object had evidently escaped the knowledge
of the resident priest, although Dubois has sought to establish
its identity with a curious structure which he found in the little
sacristy on the inner side of the church. [39] Vardzia is, in fact,
the city of Thamar, just as every castle in Georgia is the castle of
Thamar and every antiquity a relic of the great queen.
We picked our way among the boulders up the steep side of the cliff
until it became a perpendicular wall. There commence the irregular
horizontal rows of caves, stretching eastwards, where the escarpments
are most abrupt. A narrow path ends at a polygonal structure of
which the roof has fallen off. This edifice is either modern or has
been extensively restored; it forms a gateway and seals the approach
to the caves. The gate passed, you stand on a level footway, partly
hollowed in the rock and partly supported by rude masonry, which takes
advantage of the inequalities of the cliff-side. In the steepest places
this footway is tunnelled through the rock, and it can, of course,
be barricaded at any point. Thus it would appear that Vardzia is
inaccessible to siege, at least by any of the usual means. But one
remembers that Timur employed an ingenious contrivance to reduce the
Georgians, when they fled to their caves. From the heights above
he suspended wooden stages, from which his warriors leapt into
the crowded grottoes or scattered fire among the panic-stricken
foe. Vardzia itself is said to have been taken by this conqueror,
by what methods I do not know.
We were met by an old archimandrite and his deacon, the only
inhabitants of this long-deserted place (Fig. 19). They are supported
by the occasional contributions of pilgrims, who visit the church in
great numbers at certain times. Both were sunk to an equal degree in
abysmal ignorance, and the deacon was so shy in manner and movement,
he seemed a half-tamed creature of the rocks. I asked them the meaning
of the name Vardzia, which, according to Dubois, signifies, both in
Georgian and Armenian, the fortress of the roses. They derived it from
zia, which means uncle, and vard, I am here. They stoutly maintained
this extraordinary derivation, in face of the doubt which we displayed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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