Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
We passed along the footway for some distance, with grottoes above us
and beneath. Then we came to an imposing vaulted balcony, of which the
inner side and roof are hollowed in the rock, and the other parts are
built up with masonry. The footway forms the floor of this balcony,
which looks important when seen from below. The vaulted ceiling is
adorned with old frescos, which are in a state of advanced decay. A
doorway opens from the inner wall to a spacious cave--an oblong area
with an arched roof, disposed in the familiar shape of a simple nave
and apse. This church has a length of 46 feet 3 inches and a breadth
of 27 feet. For decoration it depends upon richly-coloured frescos,
some of which may still be seen. In the apse are depicted Mary and
the infant Christ; on the Virgin's right is placed a female aureoled
figure, clad in white and with embroidered bands. On a pilaster, left
of the apse, you discern the features of a woman whose dark complexion
impresses the eye. It seems an Egyptian type; she has been honoured
with an aureole; the old priest declared the portrait to be Queen
Thamar's, but he was almost certainly in error. In the panel of the
arch, which lies beyond, a king and queen are represented, aureoled,
their hands extended towards a stage upon which are seated the Virgin
and Child. An angel is flying towards the Virgin, bearing an object
the nature of which we were unable to ascertain. A passage leads from
the church to an adjoining chamber, in which the articles of value
are preserved. Dubois informs us that above this church, and as it
were a second storey, a second temple has been hewn of equal size. A
subterranean passage connects it with the sacristy; and this same
passage tunnels the cliff and debouches at the caves where the wine of
the city was made and stored, and which are situated in an adjoining
gorge. Dubois, who discovered this passage, found it blocked with
débris and in disuse; its existence was not mentioned to ourselves.
Beyond the church we were taken to the apartments of Queen Thamar,
which are situated further to the east. On our way we were shown a
cave which must have served as a bath-chamber; an oblong well has been
sunk into the floor. In the recess behind, a broad drain is visible,
said to be the receptacle of the water-vessels. We also noticed a
grotto which displayed a number of hewn pigeon-holes, and which had
probably served the requirements of a chemist's shop.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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