ARMENIA TRAVELS AND STUDIES BY H. F. B. LYNCH Nature's vast frame, the web of human things. Shelley, Alastor. Who can foretell our future? Spare me the attempt. We are like a harvest reaped by bad husbandmen amidst encircling gloom and cloud. John Katholikos Armenian historian of the Xth century Ch. CLXXXVII. IN TWO VOLUMES WITH 197 ILLUSTRATIONS, REPRODUCED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS AND SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR, NUMEROUS MAPS AND PLANS, A BIBLIOGRAPHY And a Map of Armenia and Adjacent Countries VOL. II THE TURKISH PROVINCES LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. LONDON: 39 PATERNOSTER ROW NEW YORK AND BOMBAY 1901 CONTENTS PAGE CHAPTER I Descend into Turkish Territory 1 CHAPTER II To Lake Van 11 CHAPTER III Across Lake Van 25 CHAPTER IV Van 38 CHAPTER V From Van to Bitlis 116 CHAPTER VI Bitlis 145 CHAPTER VII From Bitlis to Mush--Mush 160 CHAPTER VIII From Mush to Erzerum 174 CHAPTER IX Erzerum 198 CHAPTER X Return to the Border Ranges--Thalatta, thalatta! 225 CHAPTER XI Revisit Armenia 237 CHAPTER XII Across the Central Tableland to Khinis 245 CHAPTER XIII From Khinis to Tutakh 254 CHAPTER XIV Down the Murad to Melazkert 264 CHAPTER XV From Melazkert to Akhlat 276 CHAPTER XVI Akhlat 280 CHAPTER XVII Our Sojourn in the Crater of Nimrud 298 CHAPTER XVIII Round Nimrud by Lake Nazik 314 CHAPTER XIX Ascent of Sipan 326 CHAPTER XX Back to the Central Tableland 340