Grave on the Summit of Khamur 340 LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS Plan of Van To face page 81 Bitlis and Environs 147 Plan of the Ancient Fortifications of Melazkert 271 Plan of Akhlat 296 Interior of the Nimrud Crater 305 Nimrud and Surroundings 312 Plan of the Summit Region of Sipan 336 The Bingöl Dagh on the North 366 The Bingöl Dagh on the South 378 CHAPTER I DESCEND INTO TURKISH TERRITORY October 24.--The track which we were following winds for some distance along the spine of the range. You cross and cross again from the one to the other watershed, overlooking now the open spaces of the southern landscape, now the narrow and encumbered cañon of the Araxes below the adjacent cliffs of the tableland. The rocky parapets and gloomy valleys appear to extend from basin to basin, at right angles to the axis of the chain. West of the crags about us, and isolated from them, rose a shapely mass with black but snow-streaked sides. Darkness was falling when we descended from this lofty position into one of the valleys of the southern slopes. In its recesses we came upon a little Kurdish settlement, which seemed to promise shelter during the night.