At home in FijiGordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
History
At home in Fiji
Gordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
Fiji; Folklore -- Fiji
Our next halt was at Nasau, a very pretty village on the shore, beneath
palms and other foliage, with a steep wooded hill just behind it, and a
carefully kept burial-ground with red-leaved plants on the graves. But I
think the night was the most unpleasant we have spent in Fiji. The house
given to us was in the very middle of the village, and so small as to
have only one door and one small window, both of which were continually
blocked up by a crowd of gaping spectators, who, contrary to all Fijian
manners, would not go away even when we were vainly attempting to sleep.
Unfortunately for us, a child died in a large house next door to us, and
the whole night was devoted to doing honour to the parents. So while
the mother and other women wailed at the top of their voices, the young
folk danced in a circle in front of the house, singing their usual
songs. This went on the whole night. You can fancy we did not sleep
much! In the morning I went to the door of the house, where the family
appeared as cheerful as usual, and pleasantly invited me to enter. In so
doing I narrowly escaped treading on a mat at the doorway, which I then
discovered was thrown over the dead child, a five-year-old little one.
School and church service being over, I walked along the shore with Mrs
Langham. It is a lovely coast, shaded by grand old trees, with here
and there rich masses of creepers, which climb all over them, so that
a group of a dozen _eevie_ trees appears like one gigantic mass of
lovely trailing foliage. We saw a whole valley clothed with the great
white convolvulus, which is excellent food for cattle. The leaves take
every shade of metallic green, yellow, and bronze, and this effect is
wonderfully lustrous.
Isaaki, the venerable grey-haired minister, came to meet and welcome
us. He is a very fine-looking old man, dignified and gentle, a striking
contrast to a large number of Kai Tholos—_i.e._, mountain people—who
were sent here as prisoners by the late Government, and who do look most
miserable objects now. They will soon be sent back to their own district.
The women are much and hideously tattooed round the mouth and all over
the lips and about the shoulders, and their only clothing is a fringe of
dried grass. The women of the coast happily indulge in an exceedingly
small display of tattooing. Some have slight patterns on the hands and
arms, which are considered attractive, but the majority only submitted to
so much as was compulsory.[30]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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