At home in FijiGordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
History
At home in Fiji
Gordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
Fiji; Folklore -- Fiji
We have had several pleasant expeditions in the neighbourhood. Last
Monday, Sir Hercules having ordered a special train to take us to see the
Blue Mountains, we started early and went as far as the wonderful zigzags
by which the rail is carried across the mountains. I had the privilege of
sitting on the engine, so I obtained an admirable view.
The following day Mr Gordon, Capt. Knollys, Dr Macgregor, Dr Mayo, and
Mr Eyre started for Fiji in H.M.S. Barracouta, so our first detachment
is fairly under weigh. Sir Arthur is waiting for telegrams from England,
and is to follow in H.M.S. Pearl with Commodore Goodenough. It has been
decided that we are to remain at Pfahlert’s Hotel till he sends us orders
to follow, which we hope may come soon.
Meanwhile we find some attractions here. To-day we drove out to the South
Heads, and had a most lovely walk along the cliffs. At the entrance to
the harbour we came to a pretty little church perched among the rocks,
and listened to the choir practising “The strain upraise,” while we sat
basking in the sunshine, the whole air fragrant with the honeyed blossoms
of the red and white epacris, which grows in profusion, and is suggestive
of many-coloured heaths. Though the everlasting gum-tree is apparently
the only indigenous growth, there is lovely foliage of all sorts in the
gardens of innumerable villas, which lie dotted all over the countless
headlands, and along the shores of the many creeks which branch off from
this immense and most lovely harbour.
In these gardens you find clumps of bamboo growing beside
weeping-willows; holly-bushes, with clusters of scarlet berries,
overshadowed by stiff date palms; broad-leaved plantains, contrasting
with leafless trees; frost-dreading heliotrope beside wintry
chrysanthemums and withered oak; while dark Norfolk Island pines
serve as a background to large camellia-trees, literally one blaze of
blossom, pink, white, crimson, and variegated. These grow in such rank
profusion wherever they receive the slightest care, that we marvel to
find them in so comparatively few gardens, especially as their value
is so fully recognised that good blossoms fetch about 6d. a-piece; and
market-gardeners allow millions to drop unheeded, rather than lower their
price.
There are lovely ferns in many of the little gullies, and delightful
spots at which to land for picnics. One of the favourite “ploys” here is
to start armed with a small hammer, a bottle of vinegar or some lemons,
and slices of bread and butter, and find a feast of oysters on the rocks!
Two days ago, the weather being warm and sunny, Lady Robinson took us
in her steam-launch fourteen miles up one of the creeks. It was like
a beautiful Scotch lake; and we caught glimpses of many lesser creeks
branching off to right and left, all tempting us to explore. Now I must
despatch my letter. So good-bye.—Your loving sister.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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