We were now coasting close along the shore of Vanua Levu, which at this point is very bare and unfertile, in striking contrast to the luxuriant isles we had just left. The whole coast, with its fine mountain-ranges, reminded me strongly of Argyleshire, the _noko-noko_ (casurina trees) taking the place of birch. But for some stunted palms, and grotesque _pandanus_, we could not have told we were in the tropics; and indeed the cold blue-grey foliage of the latter is nowise suggestive of a land of sunny influences. Further on, the coast is edged with the glossy green of the _tiri_ (mangrove), which always tells of a hateful swampy shore, over which the roots of this water-loving tree spread in an inextricable network. Hidden in this swamp, swarming with mosquitoes, lies the deserted town of Mota, one of many which have been left desolate, either in consequence of intertribal war, or the ravages of the measles. Just before sunset we came to a lovely uninhabited isle, where we anchored for the night. Determined not to sleep on board the schooner, her cabin being stuffy, and her deck hard, we went ashore to explore. We landed on a beach of fine white sand, shadowed by palms and rich hardwood, and enclosed by high sandstone cliffs of warm colours: and here we had supper, and hunted for sleeping-quarters. We found an overhanging rock, just like the rock-temples of Ceylon, where the sacred images of Buddha are carved; and I really thought we looked rather like a row of Buddhas as we lay beneath this rock-canopy. What with the calm sea, and the mingled light of the red fires and the clear moonlight, glittering on the great waving palm-leaves, and all the brown teachers cooking their yams, it was a most picturesque scene; and the invariable evening prayer and singing acquires deeper interest when one thinks how recently a canoe, landing in such a place, would come in cautiously, not knowing whether hidden foes might not be lying in wait to club and eat its crew. The morning and evening family prayer is invariable. It was a lovely night, clear and beautiful. At sunrise we embarked, and sailed with a fair wind, still keeping close inshore. The scenery continued to suggest Argyleshire, range beyond range of mountains, detached masses of rock and islands, pretty colouring, but poor vegetation—a calm and pleasant sail.