At home in FijiGordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
History
At home in Fiji
Gordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
Fiji; Folklore -- Fiji
About noon we reached this town, Nanduri, which is the capital of this
district of Mathuata. It is badly situated, being on a muddy shore,
densely overgrown with mangrove, but it is very tidy and rather pretty.
The quarters prepared for us were a tiny new house, built of coral-lime,
and nicely matted. This, to the Fijian mind, is the very acme of
architecture and foreign art. I confess to infinitely preferring the
purely native house, with reed or leaf sides, and many doors. Food was
immediately brought to us, according to the usual hospitable custom.
Several women each carried a tray of plaited fibre, on which lay pieces
of green banana-leaf, with yams of different sorts, _taro_, and sweet
potatoes. Another had a black pot, in which was a fowl, which had been
boiled with _taro_ tops, making an excellent soup; others had fresh-water
prawns and small fish; and then came the height of culinary triumph, in
several kinds of pudding with sweet sauce, all tied up in pieces of young
banana-leaf, warmed over the fire to make them oil-proof, and looking
like little green bags. Then came the formal customary little speeches
of offering and accepting all these good things—of which we partook, and
then went off to call upon the chief.
The worthy man deemed it necessary quickly to don a shirt, with the tail
worn outside, over his handsome chief-like drapery of _tappa_. He stood
facing us for fully two minutes while he struggled with his buttons, ere
he was ready to shake hands and welcome us to his town. Then he took
us into his house to see his wife, after which ceremony our chief care
was, as usual, to find some quiet shady corner where we might enjoy a
bathe undisturbed. Our quest, however, proved unsatisfactory, the brook
being shallow, and the group of admiring women and children unusually
inquisitive. No wonder! Two white women were a sight rarely seen; and
one being so tall, the other small, added interest to the spectacle. And
when the pale creatures divested themselves of successive articles of
raiment, so needlessly numerous, and then took off their boots, revealing
stockings, and when the stockings gave place to feet many shades paler
than the sun-browned face and hands, their curiosity on the subject knew
no bounds; moreover, we were accompanied by Mrs Langham’s god-daughter, a
very fair delicate little girl, whose sunny hair was always a source of
delight to the people wherever we stopped. And indeed Mrs L. has herself
such masses of beautiful long silky hair as might well astonish these
women, accustomed from their childhood to have their own crisp locks
cut within four inches of the head, round which it stands out like a
halo—being always of a tawny sienna colour, from the lime with which it
is so constantly washed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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