At home in FijiGordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
History
At home in Fiji
Gordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
Fiji; Folklore -- Fiji
Having completed our toilet, we returned to the village, where there
was service in a large church, which was crowded with a most devout
congregation. Many strangers from surrounding villages were present,—as
were also all interested in the teachers, schools and church matters
generally,—to meet the superintendent, and decide certain questions;
moreover, the chief was anxious that the annual mission meeting should be
celebrated with unusual demonstration. So a very large number of persons
had assembled, and many turtle had already been captured for the feast.
I devoted this morning to sketching the curious little jail, a building
of strong cocoa-nut posts, deeply sunken in the earth, which is dug out
to make the cell, the earth being heaped up outside, almost to the eaves
of the wide-thatched roof. It seemed as if the principal and speedy
result of imprisonment must be suffocation; but the idea of having a jail
at all is as novel as a black coat, and as foreign to Fijian custom. A
canoe is just starting for some point whence letters are forwarded to
Levuka, so I must close this.
* * * * *
NANDURI, VANUA LEVU, _Friday, August 11_.
MY DEAR JEAN,—I have already sent Nell a long letter from here, now I
will begin one to you, to carry on my story, though I can only write
occasional fragments, as there are so many interesting things to see
and do. It was a pleasant surprise in this remote district to find a
countryman—Mr Fraser from Nairn, and his wife. They invited us to dine in
their Fijian house, a simple one-roomed cottage, but made pleasant and
home-like by a few decorative touches, and by the presence of the young
mother and her little ones.
The Langhams being necessarily much absorbed in matters relating to their
work, these kind new friends undertook to show me as much as they could
of the neighbourhood. So first we climbed up a green valley to a village
on the brow of the hill, whence we had a fine view of this “Great Land”
as we looked inwards to its mountain-ranges. Here we first found the
sago-palm with its clusters of small nuts: and also gathered loads of
lilac orchids. On our way back, looking seawards, we saw quite a fleet of
picturesque canoes, with great yellow mat-sails, approaching the isle.
Loud and discordant blasts on their shell-trumpets announced that they
brought a large addition to the turtles required for the feast: five or
six have been cooked every day since we arrived, a small item in the
feeding of so great a multitude. They are cleaned and then baked in their
shells. The chief also gives one thousand yams and three or four pigs
daily. The amount of green fat that has been bestowed on us would have
rejoiced a true _gourmet_; but his enjoyment would have been alloyed by
the fact that the turtle are invariably cooked before presentation, and
very badly cooked too, being invariably smoky and insipid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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