At home in FijiGordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
History
At home in Fiji
Gordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
Fiji; Folklore -- Fiji
I greatly fear that our landlord is rather hurt at my preferring the
corn-store beside the sea to his rough bachelor quarters inland, but
I must hope he will forgive me. The building in question is the only
one in this part of the bay, and is just a rough wooden shed, in
which our friend stores his corn ready for shipping. The boatmen soon
heaped up these sacks so as to leave us each a clear corner, and one
for themselves. In one of these I hung up my tent as usual—_i.e._, my
mosquito-net, with a curtain of black waterproof for a door. It is just
like the little tents we used to make when we were children, and played
at being gipsies.
Having thus prepared our night quarters, we rowed across the bay to Koro
Viti Levu (_koro_ means town), and here we found three tiny villages of
small houses, quaintly perched in every available crevice of the rock,
and on the summit of a great crag. There are always either a few plants
of large-leaved banana, tobacco, or sugar-cane—or maybe a flowering
shaddock, lemon, or hybiscus, with tufts of scarlet or yellow blossom to
lend grace to these rock-nests, to say nothing of the interest of their
brown inhabitants, who peep curiously at us as we approach.
I stopped to sketch at the mouth of the Roko Roko river, then we walked
to the summit of the crag, and across the promontory till we came to a
cave where we found about a dozen very slightly clad women making great
cooking-pots, more than two feet deep (some nearer three feet deep), and
from twenty to thirty inches in diameter. It was a very striking scene,
as we passed from the glare of the sunlight and of the glittering blue
sea below us, and turned into this dark workshop. We remained for some
time watching the women at work, while they chattered to the boatmen
(the constables), doubtless glad of our visit to break the monotony of
the day. It was wonderful to see with what skill they modelled such very
large pots, simply by eye—attaining perfect symmetry, without a wheel or
any other mechanical aid.
In the cool of the evening we rowed back here, and the men prepared our
supper, at which the grand centre dish was part of the leg of a young
pig, which we found had been sent on board yesterday by a considerate
young planter. While they were so occupied, I went along the shore till
I found a good bathing-spot, where the roots of a great _mbaku_ tree had
fashioned themselves into a screen, making an admirable dressing-room—so
I had a delightful bathe by moonlight.
Now the mosquitoes are becoming so troublesome that I shall be happier
under my net in the corn-shed, though I quite grudge wasting this soft
lovely moonlight. How the boatmen, who of course have no nets, can endure
the mosquitoes, is to me a mystery.
* * * * *
NANANU, _Sunday 29_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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