We are back once more, you see, and enjoying the peace of a calm, quiet day. The stillness here is wonderful and pleasant. How I do hate all noise! We found that many fellow-creatures had also arranged to spend the night in the corn-shed. A multitude of rats had been attracted by the maize, and held high revel. Happily, however, they only disported themselves under the raised wattle-floor on which we and the corn-sacks rested; and for my own part, I know I was too weary to mind them, and soon slept in peace. At sunrise we climbed to the summit of the great crag beneath whose shadow we lay. It was a steep ascent, but a succession of beauties of vegetation and scenery helped us up. Near the top we found two villages, one of which was well fortified, in addition to holding a natural position of great strength. Only three years ago there was severe fighting here between two tribes, which resulted in a massacre of about 450 people, most of whom were eaten! Now the last possibility of disturbance is over, we believe, for ever; and a lady may wander over these hills alone, in perfect security. At the tiny rock village on the upper crag, the people pointed out a huge grave into which, they said, that last year, in the great sickness (meaning the measles), they began by throwing in their dead uncounted. After a while they did begin to keep count, and from that time till the plague subsided, seventy bodies were laid in that one pit. We descended the hill by another path, very pretty but overgrown; and we had to force our way through tall reeds, ginger, and turmeric plants, which was hot and exhausting. In the afternoon we started on our return cruise, and four hours of alternate stiff rowing and sailing brought us back here last night. * * * * * _November 1_, Sunrise. Yesterday evening Sir Arthur arrived here in the sixteen-oar barge on his return from the war district, where he has had final arrangements to make. Now it is to be hoped that the last spark of danger has been stamped out. Mr Le Hunte, having finished his work there, returns with Sir Arthur, leaving Captain Knollys for the present at the camp. They return to Nasova this morning, so I will send my letter to catch the mail. Good-bye. * * * * * NASOVA, _November 13_.