At home in FijiGordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
History
At home in Fiji
Gordon Cumming, C. F. (Constance Frederica)
Fiji; Folklore -- Fiji
You need not imagine that the bungalows here are like those bowers of
delight I have described to you in other tropical countries. There are
no wide verandahs, over which veils of luxuriant creepers weave garlands
of delight, and no heavy scent of tropical blossoms perfumes the night
air. Here few people have had time, or care, to cultivate flowers; and
somehow those who have, have only succeeded on a _very_ small scale.
Even the fireflies, which we demand as a positive right in all tropical
lands, are very few and very dim. As to the houses, they are all alike
hideous, being built of wood (weatherboard is the word), and roofed
with corrugated iron or zinc, on which the mad tropical rains pour with
deafening noise; or else the burning sun beats so fiercely as wellnigh to
stifle the inmates, to whom the luxuries of punkahs and ice are unknown;
and even baths are by no means a matter of course, as in other hot
countries.
We have not come to a land flowing with milk and honey in any sense.
Daily food is both difficult to obtain and expensive. Fish is scarcely to
be had at any price, though the sea swarms with many good kinds. Foreign
vegetables are not to be got for love or money. The supply of fruit is
very scant, consisting only of indifferent bananas, pine-apples, and
oranges; and such as are brought to market are very poor. Milk is 1s. a
quart; eggs, 3s. a dozen. Indifferent meat is about the same price as
in England; poultry a good deal dearer. Washing varies from 4s. to 6s.
a dozen, not including dresses or petticoats; and any lady who ventures
to have her cuffs and collars, or other small pieces, washed at home,
finds that not one of the scrubbing fraternity will undertake her work.
To people accustomed to washing in India and Ceylon at 1s. a dozen, this
is of itself a startling item. As to house-rent in Levuka, it is simply
exorbitant: four guineas a-week being the moderate price paid, though
taken by the year, for this tiny little one-storeyed bungalow, the whole
of which, offices included, would easily fit into a moderately large room
at home. And this is the country to which the Colonial Office sends men
at ridiculously small salaries, because, as they were told ere leaving
England, living would cost them nothing, and they could save all their
pay! Why, a man without private fortune could hardly live here at all!
Of course, all imported goods are necessarily expensive, having to pay
freight first to Sydney and then to Levuka.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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