AT THE COURT OF THE AMÎR [Illustration: The Amîr of Afghanistan, from a painting by the Author.] AT THE COURT OF THE AMÎR A NARRATIVE BY JOHN ALFRED GRAY, M.B. LOND. LATE SURGEON TO H.H. THE AMÎR OF AFGHANISTAN [Illustration: HAND-MADE AFGHAN RUPEE STAMPED “AMÎR ABDURRAHMAN.”] LONDON RICHARD BENTLEY AND SON Publishers in Ordinary to Her Majesty the Queen 1895 [_All Rights Reserved_] THE APOLOGY. I would not have thought of inflicting a book on my long-suffering fellow-countrymen, but for the wish expressed by my publishers: for “Every fool describes in these bright days His wondrous journey to some Foreign Court.” In Afghanistan however, difficult of access, and hence comparatively unknown, there have been, since that strong man Amîr Abdurrahman ascended the Throne, such remarkable changes in the administration of the country, and such strides towards civilization, that it was thought a narrative of life there, throwing, possibly, some light on the personality of the Monarch, and on the “bent” of the people, might be of general interest. The book has been written in the intervals of professional work, and, with its shortcomings of diction and style, the only merit it can claim--that of “local colour”--is due to the fact that it was compiled from the letters I wrote from Afghanistan to her who is now my wife. WADHAM LODGE, UXBRIDGE ROAD, EALING, W. CONTENTS. PAGE CHAPTER I. ON THE ROAD TO KABUL The start and the wherefore. Unsettled condition of Afghanistan. Departure from Peshawur. Jumrûd Fort and the Watch-tower. The Afghan guard. The Khyber defile. Eccentricities of Rosinante. Lunch at Ali Musjid. Pathan villages. Pathans, their appearance and customs. Arrival at Landi-Kotal Serai. The Shenwari country. Caravan of Traders. Dakka. Dangers of the Kabul River. Mussaks. Camp at Bassawal. Chahardeh. Mountain road by the river. Distant view of Jelalabad. CHAPTER II. ARRIVAL AT KABUL Arrival at Jelalabad, Reception by the Governor. The Palace. The Town. The Plain. Quarters in the Guest Pavilion. The friendly Khan. Tattang and the gunpowder factory. The Royal gardens at Nimla. The Suffêd Koh Mountains. Arboreal distribution in Afghanistan. Gundamuk. Assassination of Cavagnari: details of the plot. The “Red bridge.” Commencement of mountainous ascent to Kabul. Jigdilik. Massacre of British in 1837. Former dangers of the valley of Katasang. Enterprising peasants. Tomb in the Sei Baba valley. Burial customs. The Lataband Pass and the Iron Cage. Distant view of Kabul. The Amîr’s projected road at Lataband. The approach to Kabul. The Lahore Gate. CHAPTER III. THE RECEPTION