At the Court of the Amîr: A Narrative — John Shaqi
At the Court of the Amîr: A NarrativeGray, John Alfred
History
At the Court of the Amîr: A Narrative
Gray, John Alfred
'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History
The city of Kabul, 5,780 feet above the sea, lies then at the foot of
the bare and rocky mountains forming the west boundary of the Kabul
valley, just at the triangular gorge made by the Kabul river. Through
this gorge runs the high road to Turkestan and Ghuzni. An ancient brick
wall, high, though somewhat ruined, with towers at intervals, leads up
on each side of the gorge to the summit of the Asmai and Shere Derwaza
mountains, along the latter to the Bala Hissar spur, where it joins the
fort. From the Asmai a line of hills extends west to the Paghman range.
Formerly the wall was taken across the gorge, bridging the Kabul river.
Remains of it are to be seen on a small island in the middle. The city,
therefore, was well protected on the western side--the side of danger
from invasion of the Tartars: it is comparatively unprotected on the
east, except by the Bala Hissar fort; for in those days little danger
of invasion was apprehended from India.
The city extends a mile and a-half from east to west, and one mile from
north to south. Hemmed in as it is by the mountains, there is no way
of extending it, except in a northerly direction towards the Sherpur
cantonment. It is here midway between the city and Sherpur on the north
side of the river that the Amîr has built his palace.
His Highness speaks derisively of the founders of his capital,
“Dewanas,” he calls them, “Fools to build a city of mud huts cramped
into a corner among the mountains.” One of his ambitions has been to
build a new Kabul in the fertile Chahardeh valley to the west of the
Shere Derwaza and Asmai mountains, between them and the Paghman hills.
Amîr Shere Ali had also the intention of building a new Kabul, and
“Shere pur,” the “City of Shere Ali,” was begun. However, he got no
further than three sides of the wall round it.
The desire to build a new Kabul is not surprising when one has seen the
present city. The first thing that strikes you on entering it is the
general look of dilapidation and dirtiness. Closer acquaintance shows
you how inexpressibly unclean and unhealthy an ancient Oriental city
can become.
We rode through the narrow badly-paved streets, and through the
bazaars, which were crowded with turbanned Afghans and Hindus robed
in bright colours. They moved out of the way of our rather large
cavalcade, but very few showed any appearance of curiosity; and we rode
on to the garden or orchard in the gorge between the Shere Derwaza and
Asmai mountains, where, by the side of the Kabul river, the Amîr’s
European Arm foundry has been established. This is protected on one
side by the river, on the three other sides by high walls.
[Sidenote: Arrival at the Arm Foundry.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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