Audubon's western journal: 1849-1850: Being the MS. record of a trip from New York to Texas, and an overland journey through Mexico and Arizona to the gold-fields of CaliforniaAudubon, John Woodhouse
History
Audubon's western journal: 1849-1850: Being the MS. record of a trip from New York to Texas, and an overland journey through Mexico and Arizona to the gold-fields of California
Audubon, John Woodhouse
Audubon, John Woodhouse, 1812-1862; California -- Gold discoveries; Mexico -- Description and travel; Overland journeys to the Pacific; Southwest, New -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
We daily pass cacti of three species, as well as miles of aloes, yet not
enough nourishment to feed a horse in the whole of them, and through
this country we start tomorrow for Chihuahua. We have one hundred
and fifty-seven mules and horses and fifty-seven men, and are in good
spirits. We hear Chihuahua is our best route, but we may have different
information at Parral and go through Sonora.
_May 29th._ Parras is like all Mexican towns I have seen, a few French
and Americans, some with a Mexican wife, others with a housekeeper; but
all indolent, keeping little stores and warehouses and making immense
profits. It is celebrated for wines and brandy, made principally by
foreigners.
_May 30th._ At three o'clock this morning I was taken with sharp pains,
nausea and other symptoms of cholera, and for the first time was obliged
to ride in the ambulance, but towards evening was able to be up again,
though very much debilitated.
_June 2d._ We left Parras at five this morning, and at dusk reached
El Paso [El Pozo], and camped on a gravelly hill. For miles a barren
desert lined both sides of our road, until we came to a swamp tract,
with extraordinary luxuriance of rank weeds, no grass, and passing this
entered a dismal thicket of chaparral.
_June 3d, Sunday._ We left El Paso at eight this morning, and rode
until ten, when we reached a deserted rancho, and with some trouble
encamped near a river bed with waterholes along it. A beautiful lagoon
with water holes a hundred yards long enabled us all to take refreshing
baths, and I watched with pleasure the languid flight of the great blue
heron, changing his position as he was approached. Two Mexicans, hunting
cattle, came to us here, and Lieut. Browning bought a wild mule, for
which he gave a few dollars and a broken down mule.
_June 2d._ [?] Again we have been through swamp-like country, crossed
the dry bed of a river, with white sand glaring painfully in our faces,
and found acres of wild sunflowers, and patches of what looked like
horehound, then we came to a cottonwood bottom, gradually changing to a
golden willow, which grew so luxuriantly on both sides of the road that
I was reminded of the rich bottom lands of Ohio.
At noon we came to Alamito, a large rancho, or small village of
scoundrels. In bargaining for water, which is only to be had from wells,
we found the men who had it for sale were making their own terms with
our rascally guide, and Simson stepped up and began talking to them.
They pretended they could not understand, but on my tapping my revolver
they instantly became most intelligent.
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