Dessau was then a very poor town, but a _læta paupertas_ reigned in it;
everybody knew how much everybody else possessed or earned, and no one
was expected to spend more than was justified by his position. We can
hardly understand now with how little people then managed, not only to
live, but thoroughly to enjoy the highest pleasures of life. My
grandfather, who was the Duke’s Prime Minister, received, I believe, no
more than two thousand thalers (£300) salary, though there may have been
additional allowances for rent, carriages and horses. But there was a
curious mixture of simplicity of life and enjoyments of the highest
kind. I remember in my grandfather’s house delightful social gatherings,
musical and literary performances. I remember Mozart’s “Don Juan,”
Beethoven’s “Fidelio” being performed there, the latest works of Goethe
and Jean Paul being read and appreciated with a cup of tea or a glass of
wine. A more select circle enjoyed their Shakespeare, their Dante, their
Calderon in English, Italian, and Spanish. I remember my grandfather
(the son of Basedow, the reformer of national education in Germany) in
his Court uniform, driving to Court in his carriage and pair, servants
in full livery, everybody making room for him and bowing deep on each
side, hat in hand. And when he came back from Court, was it not a real
holiday for his grandchildren to turn the pockets of his uniform inside
out—the pockets were lined on purpose with soft leather—to see what
bonbons and cakes he had brought home for us from _Tafel_—_i.e._, dinner
at Court? Almost my first recollections come from my grandfather’s
house. My mother, after the very early death of my father, who died
before I was four years old, had gone back to live at her father’s
house. This was a very common arrangement then. Two or three generations
often lived together in the same house, and among the better families
the house was looked upon as a common home, descending from father to
son and grandson. There was a large garden stretching out behind the
house, which was our playground. Our neighbours’ gardens were separated
on each side from our own by a low hedge only. Next door to us was the
house of a soap and candle maker, and I still remember the disagreeable
smells on the day when soap was boiled and candles were drawn. People
talked across the garden hedge to their neighbours, and all the affairs
of the town were discussed there. Our neighbour on the right side took
lodgers, and one of them was a young man who had come to Dessau to study
music under F. Schneider, and at the same time to give music lessons. He
had been a theological student, but had _umgesattelt_ (changed saddles),
and now tried to support himself as best he could at Dessau. He often
talked to me across the garden hedge (I was only five years old). One
day he lifted me across into his own garden, and asked whether I would
like to learn the pianoforte. I, of course, said yes, and he then bade
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