Australian Pictures, Drawn with Pen and PencilWilloughby, Howard
History
Australian Pictures, Drawn with Pen and Pencil
Willoughby, Howard
Australia -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Australia
Ballarat lies 100 miles to the north-east of Melbourne, or at least it
is that distance by rail, viâ Geelong, but a direct line will soon
reduce it to a distance of seventy miles. An upland plateau, with a
fringe of hills all around, some of these now denuded of their timber,
and glittering white, cold, and bare in the sun, the earth pitted with
holes and gullies, scarified as if by some gigantic rooster,
'mullock'-heaps, 'poppet-heads,' and engine-stacks everywhere. This is
one's first impression of Ballarat. Gold-fields are very much like each
other all over the world. 'Substitute pines for eucalypti,' says Mr.
Julian Thomas, 'and I could imagine this to be California. But when one
first drives from the station and sees the magnificent width of Sturt
Street, with the avenue of trees planted along the centre, the public
buildings, banks, and churches--you are possessed with astonishment that
this is a mining town. Ballarat is indeed a great inland capital. The
difference between this and Sandhurst is that at the latter the mines
obtrude themselves everywhere. One cannot go half a block but one has
mullock-heaps and poppet-heads in view. There is a mine in every
back-yard. At Sandhurst it is gold--nothing but gold! Small nuggets are
occasionally, so say the truthful inhabitants, picked up by
sharp-visioned pedestrians in the public streets. There is gold or
evidences of it all around, even in the very bricks of the houses in
which we live, for the old men tell that the first brick building ever
erected in Sandhurst was pulled down and crushed, yielding three ounces
to the ton! In Ballarat it is all different. Walk up Sturt Street, or
along Lydiard Street, and one sees nothing but substantial buildings and
avenues of trees. The mines are in the suburbs, and do not deface the
town, as at Sandhurst. After an experience of the plains the city is a
perfect Arcadia. Embowered in trees, the homes of the people are
surrounded with gardens. There is verdure and vegetation in every
street. One mentally associates an amount of roughness and coarseness
with a mining town. Here it is quite other than so. There is everything
to bring light and culture and sweetness home to the people. Sandhurst
is superior in one respect--that its public gardens are right in the
centre of the town, running by the side of old Bendigo Creek; but there
is nothing in the colonies to surpass Wendouree Lake, the walks around
it, and the adjacent reserves and Botanical Gardens. An easy walk from
the town, and you embark on one of the fleet of elegant little
steamers--perfect yachts--furnished with luxurious cushions and rugs as
protection from the spray. Here everything is calm and peaceful. There
is no dust, no noise, no smells. Sailing boats and rowing boats are
plentiful; in little punts fishermen are bobbing for perch. This is a
lung which gives health and happiness to the inhabitants of Ballarat.
And when, after crossing the lake, you land under the shade of English
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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