Austria -- Description and travel; Hungary -- Description and travel
Even now the general public is so slightly informed upon the
subject that it is by no means uncommon to find educated
persons who have never heard of the Dolomites at all, or who
take them for a religious sect, like the Mormons or the Druses.
Such a reproach could hardly be levelled at any one now. The
difficulties encountered by Miss Edwards and her friend may be
concisely summed up in the remark that there were only two side-saddles
at that time in the whole country, and of these only one was for
hire. It was necessary, therefore, for the ladies to bring their own.
Sometimes for days together the friends travelled without meeting a
single stranger to the country either at the inns or on the roads, and
they met only three parties of English during the whole time between
entering the country on the Conegliano side and leaving it by Botzen.
And, even now, over forty years after, the solitary places of the Tyrol
are unspoiled by a crowd of tourists, though fully appreciated by many
a nature-lover.
One of the most remarkable rocks that Miss Edwards saw was the Sasso di
Ronch, which attracts annually hundreds of visitors. This extraordinary
isolated peak stands
... apart and alone, like a solitary remnant of outer
battlement left standing beside a razed fortress; it rises to a
height of at least 250 feet above the grass at its base. Seen
thus in profile, it is difficult to believe that it is the same
Sasso di Ronch which one has been looking at from below. It
looks like a mere aiguille or spire, disproportionately slender
for its height, and curved at the top as if just ready to pitch
over. Some one has compared the Matterhorn to the head and
neck of a war-horse rearing up behind the valley of Zermatt;
so might the Sasso di Ronch from this point be compared to the
head and neck of a giraffe. Standing upon its knife-edge of
ridge--all precipice below, all sky above, the horizon one long
sweep of jagged peaks--it makes as wild and weird a subject as
ever I sat down to sketch before or since. (_A Midsummer Ramble
in the Dolomites_, Amelia B. Edwards.)
The wild confusion of some parts of the Dolomites, their rent and
torn spires, cannot be attributed to volcanic origin, for limestone
is not volcanic; the greater part of the gigantic carving must have
been done by the slow agencies of wind and weather and rain working on
silently through age after age, and in some cases by earthquakes, which
have overthrown the precariously-balanced needles and solid blocks of
stone. One curious peak, which, though attaining to no great height
(9833 feet) is well known owing to its odd form, is the Drei Zinnen or
Three Peaks, rising like three pointing fingers of a giant hand. Miss
Edwards’ description can hardly be improved upon. She says:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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