Antislavery movements -- United States; Slavery -- United States
But the grand attractions in this “Flower of the Levant and Florence of
Turkey” are the coffee-houses, and the palaces of the rich. The writer
of Eothen, I think it is, says, “there is one coffee-house at Damascus
capable of containing a hundred persons:” a Damascus friend, a resident
clergyman, carried me into one where he had himself seen, three
thousand people on a gala-day, and several where hundreds of visitors
would not make a crowd. This great necessity of Turkish life, this
deliverance from the loneliness of an oriental home, this luxurious
substitute for the daily newspaper, is carried to perfection here.
First of all, comes the lofty dome-covered hall, surrounded by couches
like beds, enlivened on all festivals by the Arabian Improvisator
with his song and his tale; back of this are a number of rude arbors
interlaced with noble shade-trees, and watered profusely by nimble
brooks, the whole lighted every night by little pale lamps. These are
the gossiping places for the Damascene gentlemen; where the fragrant
tchébouque, the cool narghilch, or water-pipe, the delicious coffee,
the indolent game at dominos, (I never saw chess played at the east,)
is relieved by such domestic anecdotes as, according to my American
friend, brand the domestic life of the city with beastly sensuality.
One would fain hope that these are the prejudices of an earnest
missionary,--but until the residence of years had given familiarity
with the language, any opinions of a visitor would be erroneous as
well as presuming. Nothing, however, can bring back so powerfully the
Arabian tales of enchantment as the interior of the wealthier Damascus
houses. The outside is always mean and forbidding. You have sometimes
to stoop under the rude, low gate; and the first court, surrounded
only by servants’ rooms, has nothing of interest. But the second
and third quadrangles become more and more spacious, and are always
of variegated marble, containing a perpetually playing fountain,
overhung by the orange, the citron, and the vine, whose fragrance
floats dreamily on the moist air, lulling the senses to repose. The
grand saloon I found to be always arranged pretty much the same. A
lower part of the pavement near the door, is the place of deposit for
slippers, shoes, and the pattens which Damascus women use so much in
the winter, articles all of them never intended for ornament, and never
fitted to the foot, but worn as loose as possible, and never within
the sitting-room, but simply as a protection from out-door wet and
soil. The lower portion of the room and its rug-strewn floor are of
variegated marbles, then comes curiously carved woods, then painted
stucco, decorated with mirrors rising to the distant gay-colored
roof. The immense loftiness, the moist coolness, the gorgeous hues,
the emblazoned texts from the Koran, the sweet murmur of the various
fountains, the fragrance of the orange groves, succeed to the out-door
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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