Autumn Impressions of the GirondeSieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
General
Autumn Impressions of the Gironde
Sieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
France -- Description and travel
As we passed down the village street, we passed another little
procession; two acolytes in blue cassocks and caps, bearing in their
hands the vessels of sacred oil, a priest following them in biretta,
surplice and cassock, and by his side a server. I noticed that each
man's cap was instantly lifted reverently, as it passed him. As they
turned in at a cottage, the whole street down which they had passed
seemed full of the lingering fragrance of the incense carried by the
acolytes.
Arcachon, at one time, must have been exceedingly quaint and
picturesque, but since then an alien influence has been introduced
which has--for all artistic purposes--spoilt it. Facing the chief
street--dominating it, as it were--is the Casino; an ugly, flashy,
vulgar building, out of keeping structurally with everything near it.
It resembles an Indian pagoda, and when we were there in November its
huge, bleary eyes were shut as it took its yearly slumber, deserted
by Fashion. It was like an enormous pimple on the quiet, picturesque,
unpretending countenance of this village of the Landes which had been
subjected to its obsession, and that of the two hotels in immediate
attendance.
The people, however, appear unspoilt and unsophisticated. At each
cottage door sit the women knitting; and, as one passes, they pass the
time of day, or make some remark or other, with a pleasant smile.
When we were at Arcachon telegraph poles were being put up. The method
of setting up these eminences was distinctly curious, to the English
eye. There was an immense amount of propping up, and many anxious
glances bestowed on the poles before anything could be accomplished.
The men on whom this tremendous labour devolves have to wear curious
iron clasps strapped on to their boots, so that they should be able to
dig into the bark as they swarm up the poles for the poles are just
trunks of pine trees stripped of their branches, and many of them look
very crooked.
* * * * *
In many of the gardens poinsettias were flowering, and hanging
clusters of a vivid red flower which our hotel proprietress called
"Songe de Cardinal." It was the same tint of scarlet as the berries
called "Archutus" or "Arbousses," which grow here in abundance by the
side of the road on bushes, and are like a large variety of raspberry,
a cross between that and a strawberry. It has a very pleasant flavour
when eaten with cream: this our waiter confided to me, and, after
tasting the mixture, I quite agreed with him, although the proprietress
had treated the idea with scorn.
In November the roads, in places, are red with the fallen fruit of this
plant. There are also curious long brown seed cases which had dropped
from trees something like acacias, but which have a smaller leaf than
our English variety. The tint of the pods is a warm reddish brown; they
are about the length of one's forearm, the inner edges all sticky with
resin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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