Autumn Impressions of the GirondeSieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
General
Autumn Impressions of the Gironde
Sieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
France -- Description and travel
In Rue de la Halle the houses are mostly six stories in height, some
having lovely floriated doorways, and over them wrought iron balconies
in all varieties of design; over some of the windows I noticed
dog-tooth mouldings in perfect repair, and sometimes statues. Now and
again one would come upon a specially fine old mansion, with carved
doorways and, inside the entrance hall, panelled walls and grand old
oak staircase. As often as not, one would find big baskets and sacks
of flour arranged all round the hall, showing plainly enough for what
purpose it was used now.
Now and again one of the heavy corn waggons would come lumbering down
the narrow street, driving one perforce on the extremely cramped
allowance of inches, called a pathway here: the dark blue smocks,
(shading off into a lighter tint for the trousers), of the carters,
making the most perfect foil to the quiet, sombre grey houses which
were beside them on either side.
Illustration: CHATEAU DE LA GUIGNARDIERE, LA VENDEE.
[_Page 83._
Now and again as one turned out of one narrow, corkscrew road into
another, one would catch sight, above the towering heights of the
overhanging stories, of the spires, reared far beyond the houses of
men, of the old churches, which vary the monotony of the roofs of
the city, and stand steadfastly through the ages all along, as
witnesses of the past: its faith and its aims. I am not _au fait_ in
the architectural points of churches, or I should like to enlarge on
the beauties of the churches of St. André, St. Seurin, and one or two
others of ancient fame, which help to make Bordeaux the splendid city
it is. Adverse faiths, and the violent way in which they expressed
themselves in the past, have terribly spoilt and desecrated much of
the old work--work so beautiful that it is difficult to imagine how
the hand of Vandalism could bear to destroy it as ruthlessly as it
has done. We went to see the cathedral church of St. André one Sunday
afternoon. The chancel was literally one blaze of light for Benediction
and Vespers. The whole service was magnificently rendered, a first rate
orchestra supplementing the grand organ, and the voices of priests and
choir beyond all praise. What was, however, infinitely to be condemned,
was the irreverent pushing and jostling which was indulged in _ad
nauseam_ by many of the congregation. That any one was kneeling in
prayer, seemed to be no deterrent whatever; for the rough, purposeful
shove of hand and arm, to enable its possessor to get a better view of
the proceedings, went forward just as energetically.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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