Autumn Impressions of the GirondeSieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
General
Autumn Impressions of the Gironde
Sieveking, I. Giberne (Isabel Giberne)
France -- Description and travel
Many of the men were shouting their loudest at the stalls over which
they presided. One, I noticed, who offered for sale a curious little
collection of odds and ends was proclaiming their value thus:--
"_Voila! toute la service--Toute la Séminée! Tous les articles! Tous
les articles!_"
Another was crying out, "_Toute la soir!_" as he lifted on high a
bundle of coloured measures.
The "coloured end" of the market was undeniably the fruit and vegetable
stalls. There, side by side, everywhere one's eye roamed, lay long
sticks of celery, cooked brown pears, little flat straw baskets
full of neat little, bright green broccoli; the soft olive green of
the heart shaped leaves of the fig throwing into vivid contrast the
delicate peach and tawny brown of the _déneufles_ (medlars). Here,
the deep flaring orange of the sliced _citronne_ would jostle the cool
white, veined, and unobtrusive green of a neighbouring leek, its long,
trailing roots lying on the counter like unravelled string. There,
would be the _céleri rave_ with its round, bulgy, cream-coloured stumps
exchanging contrasts with the deep myrtle tint of the crinkled leaves,
puckered and rugged, of a certain species of broccoli.
All around reigned a pandemonium of sound. Upon a cart close to the
grey old church of Notre Dame, stood a woman singing "_Des Chants
Républicans_," to the accompaniment of a concertina. Her audience was
mixed, and somewhat inattentive. It consisted of soldiers, market
women, children, all jabbering, jostling, laughing, and singing little
catchy bits of the song. Overhead was a gigantic, brilliant red
umbrella. The whole scene was fenced by market carts of all sizes and
shapes whose coverings presented to the eye every variety of green
linen.
The Church of Notre Dame has three magnificent doorways, full of the
most exquisite design and moulding, in perfect preservation. Indeed
the whole outward presentment of the church is exceedingly fine, so
that one is sensible of keen disappointment, when, on going inside,
one is confronted with painted pillars and tawdry, artificial flowers
flaunting everywhere. The singing here is very inferior to that which
we heard in the churches of Bordeaux; and in neither Notre Dame, nor
the cathedral, was the great organ used at High Mass, nor at Vespers.
During the service of Vespers at which I was present, one of the
priests played the harmonium, surrounded by a number of choir boys.
Whenever it seemed to him that some boy was not attending, he would
strike a note, reiteratingly, until he managed to catch that boy's eye,
when he frowned in reproof. It was a case of the many suffering because
of the misdoings of the one! One of the oldest of the smaller churches
at Poitiers is that of St. Parchaise. This church, I found, is kept
open all night, and a stove kept burning during the winter months, for
the sake of the aged and infirm poor, who have no other refuge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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