A Mexican Watering Place.--Delightful Climate.--Aguas Calientes. --Young Senoritas.--Local City Scenes.--Convicts.--Churches. --A Mummified Monk.--Punishment is Swift and Sure.--Hot Springs.--Bathing in Public.--Caged Songsters.--"Antiquities." --Delicious Fruits.--Market Scenes.--San Luis Potosi.--The Public Buildings.--City of Leon.--A Beautiful Plaza.--Local Manufactories.--Home Industries of Leon.--The City of Silao. --Defective Agriculture.--Objection to Machinery.--Fierce Sand Storm 76 CHAPTER VI. Guanajuato.--An Ex-President.--Richest Silver Mine in Mexico.-- Reducing the Ores.--Plenty of Silver.--Open Sewers.--A Venal Priesthood.--A Big Prison.--The Catholic Church.--Getting Rid of a Prisoner.--The Frog-Rock.--Idolaters.--A Strawberry Festival at Irapuato.--Salamanca.--City of Queretaro.--A Fine Old Capital.--Maximilian and His Fate.--A Charming Plaza.-- Mammoth Cotton Factory.--The Maguey Plant.--Pulque and Other Stimulants.--Beautiful Opals.--Honey Water.--Ancient Tula.-- A Freak of Tropical Weather 97 CHAPTER VII. City of Mexico.--Private Dwellings.--Thieves.--Old Mexico.-- Climate.--Tramways.--The Plaza Mayor.--City Streets.--The Grand Paseo.--Public Statues.--Scenes upon the Paseo.--The Paseo de la Viga.--Out-of-door Concerts.--A Mexican Caballero. --Lottery Ticket Venders.--High Noon.--Mexican Soldiers.-- Musicians.--Criminals as Soldiers.--The Grand Cathedral.--The Ancient Aztec Temple.--Magnificent View from the Towers of the Cathedral.--Cost of the Edifice.--Valley of Anahuac 126 CHAPTER VIII. An Extinct Volcano.--Mexican Mountains.--The Public Institutions of the Capital.--The Government Palace.--The Museum.-- Maximilian's State Carriage.--A Peculiar Plant.--The Academy of Fine Arts.--Choice Paintings.--Art School.--Picture Writing.--Native Artists.--Exquisite Pottery.--Cortez's Presents to Charles V.--A Special Aztec Art.--The Sacrificial Stone.--Spanish Historical Authorities.--Public Library.--The Plaza.--Flower Market.--A Morning Visit.--Public Market.-- Concealed Weapons 150 CHAPTER IX. A City of Vistas.--Want of Proper Drainage.--Unfortunate Site.-- Insecure Foundations.--A Boom in Building Lots.--Pleasant Suburbs.--Night Watchmen.--The Iturbide Hotel--A Would-be Emperor.--Domestic Arrangements.--A New Hotel wanted.-- Places of Public Entertainment.--The Bull Ring.--Repulsive Performance.--Monte de Piedad.--An English Syndicate purchase it.--The Alameda.--The Inquisition.--Festal Days.--Pulque Shops.--The Church Party.--Gilded Bar-Rooms.--Mexican Marriages.--Mothers and Infants.--A Family Group 170