Peasants of Ossau--Capitivity of Francis the First--Death of Joyeuse--Death of the Duke de Maine--Dances CHAPTER IX. Coarraze--Orton--The Pont Long--Les Belles Cantinières--Morlàas--The Curé--Resintance to Improvement--Uzain--Lescar--Reformation in Navarre--Tombs--François Phoebus--The Mother CHAPTER X. The Romances of the Castle of Orthez--Tour de Moncade--The Infants--The Son of Gaston Phoebus--Legends--The Oath--The bad King of Navarre--The Quarrel--The Murder--Death of Gaston Phoebus--Paradise the Reward of Hunters--The Captive--The Step-Mother--The Young Countess--The Great Bear--The Return--The Real Cause--The Meeting in the Forest--The Mass CHAPTER XI. The Countess of Comminges--The Charge--The persecuted Heiress--The Bridge--The Cordelier--Costume--Aspremont--Peyrehourade CHAPTER XII. Bayonne-Public Walks--Biaritz--Atalaya--Giant Fernagus--Anne of Neubourg--The Dancing Mayor CHAPTER XIII. Basque Language--Dialects--Words--Poetry--Songs--The Deserter--Character--Drama--Towns CHAPTER XIV. Cagots--Cacous of Brittany CHAPTER XV. The Cagot--Vallée d'Aspe--Superstitions--Forests--Despourrins--The two Gaves--Bedous--High-road to Saragossa--Cascade of Lescun--Urdos--A Picture for Murillo--La Vache CHAPTER XVI. Aramitz--The Play--Mauléon--The Sisters--Words--St. Jean CHAPTER XVII. Arneguy--The Cacolet--Rolando's Tree--Snow-white Goats --Costume--Sauveterre--The Pastor--Navarreux--Spanish Air BÉARN AND THE PYRENEES. VOL. II. CHAPTER I. RENOWN OF PAU--LECTOURE--THE LABOURER-DUKE--AUCH--TARBES--THE PRINCESS AND THE COUNT--COSTUME--ARRIVAL AT PAU--THE PROMENADES--THE TOWN--IMPROVEMENTS-FIRST IMPRESSIONS--WALKS--BUILDINGS--HOTELS--THE MAGNIFICENT BAKER--THE SWAIN--TOU-CAI! WE left Agen on our way to Pau, where we proposed taking up our winter quarters, having so frequently heard that it was one of the best retreats for cold weather in the South of France: its various perfections casting into the shade those, long-established, but now waning, of Montpelier, Nice, &c. At Lectoure we changed horses, and remained long enough to admire the fine view from its exalted position, and a few of the humours of its population of young ragged urchins, whose gambols with a huge Pyrenean dog diverted us for some time. Lectoure is situated on the summit of an immense rock, surrounded by hills and deep valleys. It was formerly very strongly fortified, as the remains of its Roman and Middle-Age walls attest.