Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri QuatreCostello, Louisa Stuart
History
Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri Quatre
Costello, Louisa Stuart
Béarn (France) -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
The tower of the church, partly Roman, partly English, is a very
striking object, from its extreme height and apparent fragility, which
is, however, merely imaginary; for it has resisted the efforts of time
and war for centuries: it once had a steeple of stupendous height; but
as it was continually attracting the stray lightnings, and was, besides,
much dilapidated, it was demolished. The episcopal palace, now the
Mairie, is near it, bought for the town by Marshal Lannes, Duke de
Montebello. The statue of this hero of Napoleon is in the grand square,
and his portrait, as well as those of other great men born in Lectoure,
adorn the walls of the interior. There are many fine promenades, from
whence delicious views can be enjoyed; from that of Fleurance it is
said that, on a clear day, the towers of the cathedral of Auch are seen;
and the view is bounded by the snowy giants of the Pyrenees. Although
the day was fine, we could not, however, distinguish either. This public
walk was made at the time when Lannes was a simple labourer in his
native place; and he, with others, received six sous a-day for his work.
The Duke de Montebello is said afterwards to have sat beneath the trees
which overshadow it, and told his companions in arms how his youth was
passed, and what his pay was at that time. This is a trait which does
the brave soldier's memory infinite honour.
The country is agreeable and diversified on the way to Auch, and the two
towers of the cathedral are seen at a great distance, crowning the
height on which the town stands. They have so much the aspect of a
feudal castle, that it is difficult to believe that one is looking on a
church. The nearer you approach, the more determined seems the form: and
walls, and bastions, and turrets, and ruins, seem rising out of the
hill: all, however, as you come quite close, subside into a huge mass,
which gives a promise of magnificence and grandeur by no means realized;
for there is more of Louis XIV. and XV., than Charles VIII., who began
the building, about the architecture; and the towers, which appeared so
grand at a distance, have a singularly poor and mean appearance
attached to the façade, and compared to the enormous bulk of the fabric.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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