Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri QuatreCostello, Louisa Stuart
History
Béarn and the Pyrenees : $b A legendary tour to the country of Henri Quatre
Costello, Louisa Stuart
Béarn (France) -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
A _prie-Dieu_ of the same date
is near; but all this furniture is merely _housed_ for the present, as
nothing is arranged; one, of course, looks at these specimens with an
admiration which has nothing to do with Henri Quatre's castle, as they
would be equally well placed in M. de Somerard's museum, at the
delightful Hôtel de Cluny.
A tapestry screen, said to be of the time of Charles VII., has a place
in this heterogeneous collection: it represents the Maid of Orleans,
crowned by victorious France, whose _lilies_ are restored, and her
enemies trampled under her feet; in the back-ground is the sea, with
strange-looking monsters huddled into its waves, in apparent terror:
these are the Leopards of England taking flight from the shores of
France. The colours are well preserved in this piece of work, and the
whole composition deserves to be remarked, if not for the correctness of
its drawing, for the _naïveté_ of its details.
It might have been better to have filled the castle with furniture
belonging exclusively to the time, or anterior to that of Henry IV.; and
it struck me that much which has arrived from Paris, of the period of
Louis XIV., is out of keeping with the _souvenirs_ of the castle of Pau.
I almost hope that, if ever it is entirely restored, these pieces of
furniture will be banished, and others, more antique, substituted. The
tapestry with which the walls are covered is very curious and
appropriate; it is chiefly of the time of Francis I.; and some beautiful
Gobelins, of modern date, representing different scenes in the life of
Henry, equally so.
The most, indeed the only, beautiful portions of the castle, are the
ceilings of the principal staircase and passages leading from it; the
medallions of which present the heads of Marguerite de Valois and her
husband, Henry d'Albret, with their interlaced initials and arms on the
walls: these again occur on the mantel-pieces, in the midst of very
exquisite arabesques, which the skill of the modern sculptor is
restoring with singular delicacy.
The object which excites the most interest in the castle, is the famous
shell of a tortoise, of immense size, said to have served as a cradle to
the little hero whose birth was hailed with such rapture by his
expectant grandfather. One would fain believe that this is indeed the
identical _berceau de Henri IV._ so much talked of; but it is difficult
to reconcile all the improbabilities of its being so: the substitution
of another, after the real shell had been burnt in the castle-court, may
do credit to those who cherish the hero's name; always provided no less
generous motive induced the act; but the tale told to prove its identity
is, unfortunately, not convincing.
The shell is suspended in the centre of a chamber, formerly the _salle
de réception_ of Henry II. d'Albret, and surrounded with trophies, in
tawdry taste, which it is the intention to have removed, and the gilt
helmet and feathers replaced by some armour really belonging to King
Henry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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