Baltimore Hats, Past and PresentBrigham, William Tufts
History
Baltimore Hats, Past and Present
Brigham, William Tufts
Hat trade -- Maryland -- Baltimore -- History; Hats
"Scratch" or "brush" hats (terms used for hats made with a felt body
and afterwards combed or scratched until a nap was raised) were
manufactured and worn prior to the middle of the century. These were
all stiffened high hats, and constituted the dressy article of
headwear until the introduction of the silk hat, which for the last
fifty years has maintained its ascendency as the leading article of
fashion in gentlemen's hats.
About the year 1830 the beaver hat assumed huge proportions of crown,
having a very heavy "bell," measuring full seven inches in height and
nine inches across the tip; to this crown was added an insignificant
brim of only one and a half inches in width. These hats were covered
with a beaver nap of such a length that it waved with the wind, and
its appearance upon the head of the wearer was as _outre_ and unique
as the "shako" on the head of a modern drum-major.
To more forcibly illustrate the proportions of this style of hat, we
may say that its actual capacity was nearly a peck.
Besides the high hats of either beaver, brush or silk, caps made of
cloth or fur were much used prior to the introduction of the soft
felt hat, and continued to be so until an incident occurred which
created a sudden revolution in the tastes of the American people
regarding their head-dress.
The visit of Louis Kossuth, the eminent Hungarian patriot, to this
country in the year 1851, had the effect of producing a wonderful
change in the fashion of hats. The one worn by Kossuth was a high
unstiffened black felt trimmed with a wide band, and was ornamented
with an ostrich feather. The immense popularity of this famous
foreigner with all Americans brought about the fashion of a similar
hat. Never before or since in this country did the introduction of a
new fashion in hats spread with such rapidity as did the "Kossuth."
All hat factories in the country were taxed to their utmost capacity
to supply the demand, until every American citizen, old and young, was
to be seen wearing a soft hat ornamented with an ostrich plume. It was
the "Kossuth" that marked the era of the introduction of the soft or
slouch hat, and stimulated the sale of that undress article of
headwear, which continued in vogue throughout the United States for a
number of years. The soft hat appeared in many forms and styles, some
of which became universally popular. The "wide-awake," brought out
during the election campaign of Abraham Lincoln, in the year 1860,
was a noted and successful style. It was a low crown, white felt, with
wide black band and binding.
Robert Bonner's original and successful advertising of his newspaper,
the New York _Ledger_, was a sensation of the day, and the "Ledger"
was the name given to a soft hat that commanded a great sale. The
peculiarity of the "Ledger" was a narrow leather band and leather
binding.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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