Baltimore Hats, Past and PresentBrigham, William Tufts
History
Baltimore Hats, Past and Present
Brigham, William Tufts
Hat trade -- Maryland -- Baltimore -- History; Hats
The style of hat of this period (1731) had the sides of the brim
turned up, with a front of an easy curl, which, nearly resembling a
cap-visor, made it in shape somewhat between a hat and cap; this seems
to have been the first approach toward the "cocked" or three-cornered
hat afterwards so extensively used, and to Americans the most familiar
of past styles, from its being a fashion of the period of the
Revolution, by which it became the prominent part of an historical
costume. The arbitrary law before alluded to was afterwards modified,
but an uncomfortable restriction continued to be enforced upon all
manufactures, for in the year 1750 the English Parliament, among other
unjust acts, enacted a law forbidding exportation of hats from one
colony to another and allowing no hatter to have more than two
apprentices at one time, "because the colonists, if let alone, would
soon supply the whole world with hats."
[Illustration: 1731]
The French fashion of this time had the brazen characteristic of its
brim rising erect from the forehead, a style seemingly in keeping with
the then irritable condition and reckless agitation of the French
people.
Planché, in his "Cyclopædia of Costumes" (vol. 1, page 261), quotes a
humorous description, evidently referring to this particular style, as
follows: "Some wear their hats with the corners that should cover the
forehead high in the air, these are called Gawkies; others do not half
cover their heads, which, indeed, is owing to the shallowness of their
crowns, but between beaver and eyebrows exposes a blank forehead,
which looks like a sandy road in a surveyor's plan."
[Illustration: 1750]
From the year 1750 until after the Revolution there was but little
change in the general character of style in men's hats: the custom of
erecting the brims by tying or looping them up prevailed. Soon the
elevation of the brim of 1750 was abandoned and a change made by
looping it at the points of a triangle, producing the three-cornered
or "cocked" hat. This was a becoming style we must admit, and one
seemingly well suited to the independent, fearless and patriotic
characteristics of our forefathers' traits, the possession of which at
that time gave us all the comforts that are ours now. The "cocked" hat
enjoyed a long popularity, continuing in fashion until near the close
of the century, when the "steeple top" and "chimney pot" styles--slang
terms for the high beavers--came into vogue, a style which Ashton, an
English writer, designates as "the hideous head-covering that has
martyrized at least three generations."
[Illustration: 1760]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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