Barrier beaches of the Atlantic coastMerrill, Frederick J. H. (Frederick James Hamilton)
Science
Barrier beaches of the Atlantic coast
Merrill, Frederick J. H. (Frederick James Hamilton)
Barrier islands; Beaches -- New Jersey
The genesis of the beaches is still a matter for speculation, but
it may be safely affirmed that they originated as sand-bars, formed
under water by wave and current action. How these bars were brought
above water, so that the wind could exert its constructive power, is
uncertain. A plausible hypothesis is, that while the ocean was breaking
on the mainland shore and forming the Quaternary terraces, which may be
seen there, sand-bars were made under water, and that the continental
elevation which raised these terraces to their present position
from twenty-five to eighty feet above tide, brought these sand-bars
above water into a horizon of Æolian action. Once above the sea, the
beaches would maintain their existence. A continued elevation of the
coast would add to their seaward extent and a depression would cause
a westward recession until they were brought to rest by contact with
the mainland shore. In New Jersey the latter condition may be observed
between Long Branch and Point Pleasant and also at Cape May.
So far as it is known to the writer, the only way in which a beach can
be entirely destroyed is by an inlet shifting its position. In this
case the beach obliterated is replaced by the extension of an adjacent
beach.
Of the beaches south of New Jersey not enough is known to the writer
to permit of a detailed biographical sketch. Their form and structure
show that they have been subject to the same formative agencies and
vicissitudes as those already described. In addition to the Georgia
sea-islands of _ante-bellum_ fame, may be mentioned as familiar
examples the barriers which in Virginia and North Carolina separate
Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds from the ocean; in Florida, Amelia Island
on which is built the city of Fernandina; Anastasia Island, in front
of St. Augustine; and the beaches which separate Halifax and Indian
Rivers from the Atlantic. The last named rivers are the lagoons which
separate the barriers from the mainland shore. Lake Worth is one of
these lagoons, of which the inlet has been closed.
To what extent the Florida Keys may be included in the category of
barrier beaches must be decided by future investigation. Key West
is evidently a wave-built sand-bar composed of fragments of coral,
molluscan shells, and foraminifera, and it seems likely that Cayo Largo
and others of that type may be of similar origin. The coquina deposits
of the vicinity of St. Augustine are also wave-formed.
The hypothesis of Prof. Louis Agassiz, that the Florida Keys are all
of organic origin--i. e., that they were formed by the growth of coral
reefs--may be true so far as the determination of their location and
direction. A submerged reef of coral may have formed a nucleus on
which the waves and currents deposited a load of calcareous sand, but
the superficial portion is evidently similar in origin to that of the
beaches farther north.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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