Barrier beaches of the Atlantic coastMerrill, Frederick J. H. (Frederick James Hamilton)
Science
Barrier beaches of the Atlantic coast
Merrill, Frederick J. H. (Frederick James Hamilton)
Barrier islands; Beaches -- New Jersey
From Monmouth to the head of Barnegat Bay there is no beach similar to
that of Sandy Hook. Instead of a sand-reef separated from the mainland
by a navigable channel, there is only the sloping strand adjoining,
as at Long Branch, the foot of an upland bluff, or as at Spring Lake,
Seagirt, and Point Pleasant, with its crest on a level with the surface
of the upland. Between Bay Head and Cape May, however, there are twelve
beaches, mostly well developed and preserved, and named respectively
Squan, Island, Long, Island or Little, Brigantine, Absecon, Peck’s,
Ludlam’s, Seven-Mile, Five-Mile or Holly, Two-Mile, and Poverty. The
majority of these, however, do not show the high degree of development
exhibited by Seven-Mile and Five-Mile Beaches. Some appear to be only
in the earlier stages of growth, while others have passed their prime
and are now yielding to the attacks of wind and wave.
These agents have been hitherto considered only with reference to
their constructive effect on the beaches, and it now remains to
consider their destructive action.
When the wind blows from the west it carries back to the sea much of
the sand which the east wind had piled up in dunes, and, but for the
fact that the latter wind prevails, the sand-hills would not long
exist. By a surplus of constructive action, however, the beaches are
all moving to the west. Year after year sand is removed from their
eastern margin by the winter storms, and carried north or south
according to the direction of the prevailing current. The winds from
the ocean drive the dunes westward, and, with the possible exception of
Sandy Hook, all the beaches are now underlaid by an old salt meadow,
originally formed in sheltered waters on their west side. In this turf,
when exposed during an unusually low tide, the footprints of cattle
are seen in many places, made, it is claimed, when the salt meadow was
a pasture and lay on the shoreward side of the beach. This westward
recession has, in many cases, amounted to more than a mile within two
centuries.
On many of the beaches south of Point Pleasant the westward progress of
the dunes has been made over and through the native forest. As a result
of this, gnarled cedars, dying and dead, are found among the dunes; and
in many cases stumps may be seen in the sand within reach of the tide.
Near the northern end of Seven-Mile Beach, at the time of the writer’s
visit in 1885, an immense dune forty feet in height and half a mile
in length had been for many years encroaching steadily upon the dense
forest. The tree-tops here projected above the summit of the ridge
like the heads of drowning men above the waves; while on the outer
flank of the overwhelming mass of sand the gnarled, skeleton trunks
of those which had perished in it stood bare and grim, showing with
dreary grayness the fate of the earlier victims of which the ragged and
wave-worn stumps alone remained. A more desolate scene the writer has
never witnessed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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