The drive from Ambleside along the banks of the Brathay, across Skelwith
Bridge and thence over Oxenfell to Yewdale and down to Coniston, is
typical of many of the day excursions in Lakeland--the changing scenes
of beauty _en route_ are so entrancing in themselves that even without a
chief object in view, the drive is well worth taking. For whether it is
the rich lichen-covered boulders over which the Brathay gently murmurs,
the pastoral enclosures on its banks, with the old boundary walls
climbing up the steep fellsides beyond, the feast of colour presented by
the river and dark fir trees as we cross Skelwith Bridge, the wild
moorland scenery of Oxenfell with that delicious glimpse across Colwith
of the Langdale Pikes and Helvellyn, or the larch trees, heather and
bracken slopes of Yewdale, interspersed with grey craggy patches, or
whether, finally, it is Coniston Lake itself that most impresses us
would be impossible to decide with any certainty.
But Coniston Lake alone is one of the sights of Lakeland and holds a
high place in the esteem of many lovers of the beautiful in nature,
beside Ruskin, who loved it so well that he made his home by its
margin.
The lake is about five miles long and not more than half a mile in
width. On its Western side it is bounded by low, wooded slopes not
unlike those at the lower end of Windermere, while on the opposite side,
in great contrast, is seen the fine mountain--Old Man, whose peculiar
name is a corruption of the Gaelic, Alt Maen, the High Rock. Below its
rugged escarpments nestles the village of Coniston with its church,
railway-station and other signs of a thriving tourist centre.
In the church-yard, beneath the fine runic cross, carved with figures
symbolical of his writings, is laid to rest John Ruskin, whose name will
for all time be most closely associated with this lovely spot. His home,
Brantwood, is on the east side of the Lake, about two miles from the
village and a mile from Tent Lodge, where Tennyson once resided.
The Furness Railway Company, under the management of Mr. Alfred Aslett,
a veritable genius of organization and enterprise, has placed a
comfortable steam yacht on Coniston, as well as a most picturesque
gondola, and these ply continuously throughout the summer months from
Waterhead to Lake Foot. The sail down the lake is one of great beauty,
affording magnificent near views of the Old Man, and Dow Crags, with
Fairfield, Helvellyn, Red Screes and other Lakeland giants peering over
the coronal of wood at the head of the lake. Brantwood, Tent Lodge, the
ivy-covered Coniston Hall and other farmsteads are in sight from the
water and lend to the scenery an air of domesticity. The view from
Beacon Crags, the eminence overlooking the foot of Coniston, commands
the entire length of the lake with its glorious background of mountains
and is second to none in the district.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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