A very favourite climb is this latter, short but exceedingly difficult
and only for those of long experience. The way lies up the crack seen in
the illustration and it is climbed by wedging the knee in this crack,
whilst the hands grasp its rough edges above one’s head. The leader, who
should be an uncommonly good cragsman, attaches the rope round his waist
and when he has attained the top of the crack, rests there and takes in
the rope as the next climber ascends. It is just kept taut so that in
case of a slip the second man comes to no harm. When he has joined his
leader, the latter climbs a stage higher to the next platform, and the
performance is repeated. Then comes the crux of the climb. The top
boulder overhangs considerably on one side, and the way lies up the
almost vertical right-hand outline seen in the photograph. The hand- and
footholds are very small, the situation is most exposed and it demands
not only great gymnastic skill, but a perfectly cool and daring nerve to
lead up this last bit. Once there the leader sits down--the top is
about a yard square and by no means level--and takes in his companion’s
rope. The descent can be made by reversing this route or by a more
exposed ridge on the other side.
I recall a very unpleasant experience of my own on the Needle. It was on
the bitterly cold Christmas day of 1897, that a party of three of us
climbed to its apex. We had no sooner arrived there than it came on to
rain and as the rain fell it froze immediately on the rock; the Needle
became almost like a huge inverted icicle. I essayed the descent, but
the small handholds near the top were veneered with ice. It was quite
impossible, so, with great difficulty, I regained my companions on the
top. By this time a driving wind had sprung up and it behoved us to
descend at once, or else be frozen and then blown off. It was an
unpleasant dilemma, but we got out of it in the following manner. The
strongest man of the party lowered first one and then the other of us,
swinging round and round on the rope end like a spider at the end of its
clew, until we reached the neck between the Needle and the mountain,
seen in the illustration. Then the last man tied his rope round the top
of the rock and came down hand over hand for about twenty feet, when off
slipped the rope from the top and he came tumbling down on to us.
Fortunately he retained his grasp of the rope and, as we were tied to
the other end, we were able to arrest his fall before he had gone far.
Beyond a severe shaking he was no worse, and this, with a bruised
shoulder where his boot struck me as his body flew through the air, was
all the damage sustained in our escapade.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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