Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
About a dozen Gun Brigs were sunk, all of which we saw with their masts
above the water; a few houses near the Bason were shattered, and about
20 Townsmen killed. The country round Antwerp is quite flat, and
appears, with the exception of 2 or 3 miles round the town, a perfect
wood; fancy such a wood with the Scheldt winding through it, several
roads radiating in lines straight as arrows, with here and there a
steeple breaking the horizontal line, and you may suppose yourself at
the top of the Cathedral. The Town is large, with the river washing the
whole of one side; on the south are the dockyards, with rope walks and
everything in fine style; the destruction of these might have been
practicable, as they are rather beyond the line of immediate
fortifications, but probably they have works for their express
protection, and the advantage gained must have been in proportion to the
stores and vessels building. I counted 16 or 17 ships of the line on the
Stocks, 2 or 3 of 120 Guns. In the Scheldt floated 13 in a state of
apparent equipment; in the basons 9--all of the line--thus completing a
fleet of 39 fine Ships, besides a few frigates and Gun Brigs
innumerable--of these only two were Dutch.
It was curious to see such a fleet, and some of them were actually worn
out, the utmost extent of whose naval career had been an expedition to
Flushing. On descending the Spire, we examined the Carillons, which are
a Gamut of chiming bells of all sizes--the total number for them and
the Church is 82; by a clock work they play every 7 minutes, so that the
neighbourhood of the Cathedral is a scene of perpetual harmony; they can
also be played by hand. Most of the churches in this country have them.
Our Guards in marching into Alkmaar were surprised and gratified in
hearing the church bells strike up "God Save the King." There are
several good churches in the town, and once all were decorated with the
works of Rubens, which Napoleon carried off. I should, however, be
perfectly satisfied with a selection from the remainder. I saw a Vandyck
on the subject of our Saviour recommending the Virgin Mary to St. John,
which was incomparable; it quite haunts me at this moment, and, however
horrible the effect of the bleeding figure on the Cross, I do not wish
to lose the impression. The Dutch have carried the art of carving in
wood to a most extraordinary pitch of perfection. I am surprised it has
not been more spoken of; some of their pulpits are really quite
marvellous. Religion increases and, I think, improves. There is less
mummery here than at Aix and some other places I have lately seen, with
the exception of a few little Saviours in powdered wigs and gilt satin
and muslin frocks, and a very singular figure as large as life, supposed
to represent the deposition in the holy sepulchre, which was covered by
a shroud of worsted gauze, studded over with enormous artificial flowers
and tinsel like a Lady's court dress.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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