Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
By the best chance in the world here, too, we fell in with a fête on the
river. Some great Burgomaster had married himself, and all the world of
Haarlem came forth in boats, decorated with colors, and bands of music
in procession up the river to pass in review before the Princess of
Orange, an elderly-looking woman. She sat in the window of a summer
house overlooking the river, and the festive procession assembled before
her. It was a lovely evening, and nothing could be more gay and
animating than the scene. We this morning at 6 quitted Haarlem in the
boat in which I am now writing as comfortably as in my own room, the
motion scarcely perceptible, about 5 miles an hour; by good luck few
passengers, and those above looking at a man who is at this incessant
Dutch employment of painting. The boat is as clean as a china dish, but
possibly it may not have been painted since last week. Edward has just
daubed his hand by looking out of the window. I am rather puzzled in
getting on here. Very little French is spoken; among the common people
none, and we converse by signs.
...Their money, too, is puzzling beyond measure. My stock consists of 5
franc pieces (French), upon which, exclusive of their not always
understanding what they are, there is a discount; this, of course, adds
to the confusion, and now I despair of understanding the infinite
variety of square, hexagon, round coins of copper and silver and base
metal which pass through my hands.
We passed two hours at Leyden as actively employed as a Foxhunter. We
found a man who spoke French, told him our wishes, gave him a list of
what was to be seen in the town, and then desired him to start,
following him on the full trot up and down churches, colleges,
Townhalls, &c. These towns are so much alike, that having seen one the
interest is considerably lessened. Leyden, however, has the honour of
possessing one of the finest streets in Holland; though capable of
accommodating 65,000 souls, there are not more than 20,000, which gives
it a melancholy appearance. In one part there is an area of about 3 or 4
Cheshire acres planted with trees and divided with walls, which in 1807
was covered, like the rest of the town, with good houses, but it
happened that a barge full of gunpowder passing through the canal, blew
up, killed 200 people, including a very clever Professor Lugai, and
destroyed all the houses. It was a sad catastrophe, to be sure; but now,
as it is all over, and all the good people's mourning laid aside, I
think the Town may be congratulated as a gainer. I could fill up my
letter with the anatomical preparations of the celebrated Albinus; but
though I am very partial to these sights, I doubt whether you would be
amused by a description of dried men, with their hearts, lungs, and
brains suspended in different bottles. The town is full of booksellers'
shops, in which capital Classics might be procured and divers others old
books. The windows were also well filled with new works translated into
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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