Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
Dutch; few, I think, original; amongst others, I saw "Ida of
Athens!"[93] ...
[Illustration: DUTCH FISHERMEN.]
It is not easy to trace the sieges of Philip 2nd in these towns, as the
fortifications are most of them extinct, fortresses of more modern
construction being now the keys of the country. Neat villas and gardens
by the canal side marked our approach to the seat of government--and a
very first-rate Town the Hague is, though I cannot conceive how the
people escape agues and colds in Autumn. Stagnant canals and pools, with
all circulation of air checked by rows of trees, cannot be healthy.
Unfortunately for us, Lord Clancarty is at Bruxelles with the Prince of
Orange. The Hague appears, from what I have seen, to be a better town
for permanent residence than Bruxelles or Antwerp. The houses are all
good, which implies a superior quality of inhabitants. In the evening we
took a drive to Scheveningen, a fishing village about 2 or 3 miles
distant, through a delightful avenue. It is one of the fashionable
resorts of the town, and is absolute perfection on a hot day, though
pregnant with damp and dew in the evening. I told you of dog carts at
Bruxelles, but here seems to be the region of despotic sway of the poor
beasts. I believe that I am not wrong in stating that nearly all the
fish is carried by them from Scheveningen to the Hague; and the weight
they draw is surprising. We passed many canine equipages; in one sat a
fisherman and his wife drawn by three dogs not much bigger than
Pompey--he with his pipe in his mouth, she with an enormous Umbrella
Hat, as grave as Pluto and Proserpine. I saw several nice goat gigs;
moreover, I am determined to have one for Owen....
...It is quite extraordinary with what excessive silence and gravity
these people carry on their affairs. On returning from Scheveningen at a
good round trot, we came in contact with another carriage. Luckily no
other accident happened than breaking their traces and grinding their
wheels. But though disabled by our driver, not a syllable of complaint
or commiseration was uttered by one party or the other. Our driver
proceeded, leaving them to take care of themselves. I observed, too,
that in manœuvering the Vessel in passing the Gulf yesterday, where some
tacks were necessary, all was performed in perfect silence; no
halloo-ing--a nod or a puff was alone sufficient....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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