Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
We arrived at Lyons on the 14th, the Day of the Grand Fête. We saw the
Town Hall illuminated, and a Review on the melancholy Plains of
Buttereaux, the common Tomb of so many Lyonnese. Here we have remained
since, but shall probably be at Geneva on the 23rd. I lodge at the Hotel
de Parc looking into the Place de Ferreant.
The Landlady, to my great surprise, spoke to me in English very
fluently. She is also a very excellent Spaniard. She has seen better
days, her husband having been a Merchant, but the Revolution destroyed
him. She was Prisoner for some time at Liverpool, taken by a Privateer
belonging to Tarleton and Rigge, who, I am sorry to say, did not behave
quite so handsomely as they should, the private property not having been
restored.
Of all the Towns I have seen this has suffered most. All the Châteaux
and Villas in its most beautiful Environs are shut up. The fine Square
of St. Louis le Grand, then Belle Cour, now Place Buonaparte, is knocked
to pieces; the fine Statue is broken and removed, and nothing left that
could remind you of what it was.
I have been witness to a scene which, of course, my curiosity as a
Traveller would not let me pass over, but which I hope not to see
again--an Execution on the Guillotine. Charles saw a man suffer at
Châlons; we did not know till it was over, but the Machine was still
standing, and the marks of the Execution very recent. On looking out of
my window the morning after our arrival here, I saw the dreadful
Instrument in the Place de Ferreant, and on inquiry found that five men
were to be beheaded in the morning and two in the evening. They deserved
their fate; they had robbed some Farmhouses and committed some
cruelties. In England, however, they would probably have escaped, as the
evidence was chiefly presumptive. They were brought to the Scaffold from
the Prison, tied each with his arms behind him and again to each other;
they were attended by a Priest, not, however, in black, and a party of
soldiers. The time of execution of the whole five did not exceed five
minutes. Of all situations in the world, I can conceive of none half so
terrible as that of the last Prisoner. He saw his companions ascend one
after another, heard each fatal blow, and saw each Body thrown aside to
make room for him. I shall never forget his countenance when he
stretched out his neck on the fatal board. He shut his eyes on looking
down where the heads of his companions had fallen, and instantly his
face turned from ghastly paleness to a deep red, and the wire was
touched and he was no more. Of all Deaths it is far the most easy; not a
convulsive struggle could be perceived after the blow. The sight is
horrid in the extreme, though not awful, as no ceremony is used to make
it so. Those who have daily seen 200 suffer without the least ceremony
or trial get hardened to the sight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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