Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
We passed also thro' Novi, every House in which is marked by Shot; that
unfortunate Town has been three times pillaged during the war. We
arrived at Genoa on the 10th of Septr., in my opinion the most
magnificent Town for its size I ever saw. The Palaces are beyond
conception beautiful, or rather were, for the French Troops are not at
this moment admitted within the Gates; they are quartered in the Suburb
in great numbers. As for the new Government, it is easily seen who is at
the head of it. There is a Doge, to be sure, but his orders come all
from Paris. While we were waiting there expecting a ship to sail to
Barcelona, the _Medusa_, English Frigate, came in, and amongst its
passengers who came with her we found a Cambridge acquaintance, who
advised us to go without delay to Leghorn as the Spanish Squadron was
waiting there for the King of Etruria[8] in order to carry him to
Barcelona. Fortunately the next day an English Brig was going, & in her
we took our passages; we were fortunate enough to receive a large packet
of letters from England a few hours before she sailed, which had she
sailed at the time the Captain intended we should have missed. Will you
let my sisters know that they arrived safe? I am not without hopes of
making some use of the interesting letters to Italy, tho' I am now
steering to the westward. After a good passage of two days we arrived at
Leghorn and found the Spaniards still there. As soon as I landed I
delivered a letter to a Mr. Callyer, a Liverpool Gentleman who is
settled there, & by his means was introduced to the Admiral's first
Lieut., who promised to secure me a berth in some of the ships. In
short, here I am in a very fine ship, tho' a horrid sailer. I have now
given you a short sketch of my tour till arriving at Leghorn; I have
only to say something of Leghorn and the _Argonauta_. The Town has
suffered very much by the war, supported nearly as it was by its
Commerce with England. The inhabitants saw with little pleasure a French
army take possession of the place & drive away the English. They still
have a strong force in the town--upwards of 2,000--and its
fortifications have been dismantled. It is singular enough to see the
French and Tuscan colours flying together on the same staff. When we
entered the port the Tuscan Ensign was becalmed & the French flag was
flying _by itself_. I was much grieved not to be able to visit Florence
when so near it, but as the Squadron was in daily expectation of sailing
I did not venture to be absent for 4 days, which the Journey would have
required. I was therefore obliged to content myself with a view of Pisa,
which I would not have missed on any account. The leaning Tower is a
curiosity in itself sufficient to induce a stranger to make a long
journey to visit it. Here the King of Etruria lived and was hourly
expected to set out for Leghorn. But his health, as it was believed, was
in so precarious a State that it was sometimes reported that he would
not go at all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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