Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
We lost no time in the evening in looking about us; the town is situated
about two miles up the Seine on a sort of Peninsula surrounded with very
regular and strong fortifications. Its docks are incomparable, and
Bonaparte would have added still more to their magnificence, but now all
is at a stand--the grass is quietly filling up spaces hitherto taken up
by soldiers, Workmen, shot and guns; the numberless merchant vessels in
a state of decay proved sufficiently the entire destruction of all
trade; but what gave me particular satisfaction was the sight of a
flotilla of Praams, luggers, intended for the invasion of England, all
reposing in a happy progress to speedy putrefaction and decay. About a
mile from the town on the hill is a beautiful village called St. Michel,
where the Havre citizens have country houses. The town itself is as
singular as heart can wish--indeed, I am firmly convinced that the
difference between the towns of the Earth and Moon is not greater than
that between those of England and France. I scarcely know how to
describe it to you. Conceive to yourself a long street of immensely tall
houses from 5 to 8 Stories, _huddled_, for huddling is the only word
which can convey my meaning, and in truth their extraordinary height and
narrow breadth seem rather the effect of compression than design....
These houses are inhabited by various families of various occupations
and tastes, so that each Storey has its own peculiar character--here you
see a smart Balcony with windows to the ground, garnished above and
below with the insignia of washing woman or taylor. They are built of
all materials, though I think chiefly of wood (like our old Cheshire
houses) and stucco; and, thanks to time and the filth and poverty of the
people, their exterior assumes a general tint of pleasing dirty
picturesque. This said dirt may have its advantages as far as the eye is
concerned, but the nose is terribly assailed by the innumerable
compounded Effluvias which flow from every Alley-hole and corner. For
the people and their dress! who shall venture to describe the things I
have seen in the shape of caps, hats and bonnets, cloaks and petticoats,
&c.? There I meet a group of Oldenburg Bonnets broader and more loaded
with flowers, bunches, bows, plumes than any we saw in London, and would
you believe it I am already not merely getting reconciled but absolutely
an admirer of them.
Having passed the groups of bonnets I meet at the next moment a set of
beings ycleped Poissardes, caparisoned with coverings of all sorts,
shapes, and sizes--here flaps a head decorated with lappets like
butterflies' wings--here nods a bower of cloth and pins tall and narrow
as the houses themselves, but I must not be too prolix on any one
particular subject.
_Sunday._
We have been to the great Church. It was full, very full, but the
congregation nearly all female.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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