Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the EastHume-Griffith, M. E.
Philosophy
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
Hume-Griffith, M. E.
Arabian Peninsula -- Social life and customs; Iran -- Social life and customs
Here is another hareem, quite different from the last one we
visited. My special friends in this house are two young girls who
are not yet married. They are such dear, bright girls, and as I
enter throw their arms round my neck and bid me welcome in a most
demonstrative way. If I am expected I always find a meal ready,
and if my visit is unannounced, a woman is always despatched to
the nearest "sook" (market) to buy an impromptu meal. They are
poor people, and I always beg them not to do this, but they never
listen to my entreaties. The meal consists sometimes of "kabobs,"
i.e. meat minced and pressed round iron skewers and grilled over
a charcoal fire; this is placed on a plate and garnished with
sliced raw onions and bitter herbs. Another time a sheep had been
killed, and our meal consisted of the "interiors," dished in a
most tempting manner. Sometimes salads form the principal dish;
but whatever the meal consists of, it is always served with love,
and is consequently thoroughly appreciated. This house seems always
to be full of women, all more or less related. If I get mixed up,
as I sometimes do, in the relationship of those present, and show my
ignorance of their names, they are quite hurt, and exclaim: "What,
you have forgotten me?" "Was I not in the hospital for a week?" or,
"Did I not bring So-and-so to see you?" If they have seen me once,
they are quite surprised if I cannot remember all about them, and
often I have to resort to stratagem to find out their names without
exposing my forgetfulness. While we sit and talk the girls are all
busily engaged in crotcheting caps. These are sold in the sook at
about six-pence a dozen, cotton included. In certain "mahullahs"
(quarters) of the town you will see all the women doing this work;
in another part of the town they are all occupied with knitting socks,
in another cigarette-making is the fashion. Each mahullah seems to have
its own style of work for the women, to which it adheres more or less.
In one house where I visit, a basin of delicious "lebban" is always
set before me. We all sit on the floor round a diminutive table about
five inches high, and each one being provided with a wooden spoon dips
out the lebban from the central dish. This lebban makes a delicious
food in the hot weather. It is made something after the same manner
as "junket," only lebban is more tart and acid. Eaten with grated
cucumbers, it makes a very refreshing salad. Fortunately for me,
I can eat and, as a rule, thoroughly enjoy native food. In fact,
I often prefer it to our own, for almost all attempts at European
cookery by native cooks are decided failures. My husband, on the
other hand, cannot indulge in this respect, the excessive fat used
being too much for his digestive powers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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