Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the EastHume-Griffith, M. E.
Philosophy
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
Hume-Griffith, M. E.
Arabian Peninsula -- Social life and customs; Iran -- Social life and customs
about eight o'clock next morning by the sound of bells, and knew that
our belated caravan had come in. While they were settling disputes
and unpacking we strolled off into the garden to dip our faces into
the cool water that was flowing through the grounds. It was, or rather
had been, a magnificent garden, but, like everything else in Persia,
was even then fast falling into decay. There was water in abundance,
flowing on both sides, and fountains playing on the top terrace and
also at the foot of the garden. The whole garden was built in a series
of terraces, and steps led from one level to the next. The houses and
gardens had been built by H.H. Farman Farma, at one time governor of
Kerman, and must have cost a great deal of money.
We took up our quarters in the house at the top of the garden, and
after a few days our consul came out from Kerman and occupied the
lower one. We spent a very enjoyable month here, riding, shooting,
bathing, &c. My husband opened a dispensary for the villagers,
to which he went two mornings each week, and the people appreciated
this very much, as I do not think they had ever had an English doctor
amongst them before. We much enjoyed the use of the Persian "hammam"
(bath) while there. It comprised a series of rooms built a little way
off from the house; each room was built of marble and blue tiles. The
first or outer room was simply for resting in, having a fountain in
the centre; passing through this, you entered a large vaulted room,
which was used for a dressing-room and "cooling-down" place; from this
you passed to the actual hammam, which was a large tank of water about
15 feet by 10 feet, and from 1 to 6 feet deep, shelving gradually in
depth from the edge. This had not been used for some years apparently,
but my husband had it cleaned out and filled with fresh water, and
we were very thankful for it during the hot weather. At first we
tried taking our afternoon siesta in the outer or resting-room, but
found it too feverish; however, we were able to sit in it during the
early part of the day, and generally had our Persian lesson there,
as it was easier to work in the cool. We always made our holidays
a time for language study, as my husband rarely could find time for
it while at work in the city, and we both longed to be able to speak
Persian properly. I must say the natives were always wonderfully good
and patient over our mistakes, and never laughed, however terrible
and feeble our attempts at conversation might be. Unfortunately,
just as we were beginning to feel our way in Persian a little, we
had to start learning a new language, so to a great extent we have
forgotten our Persian.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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