Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the EastHume-Griffith, M. E.
Philosophy
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
Hume-Griffith, M. E.
Arabian Peninsula -- Social life and customs; Iran -- Social life and customs
About noon, just as I am afraid we are all feeling very tired and
sleepy, a welcome change comes; a stirring and commotion begins in
the courtyard, women rush about with enormous trays on their heads
and carrying all kinds of dishes: this is but a prelude to dinner
being announced. Two large rooms are laid out for dinner; in each room
about one hundred guests sit down. I was taken in by the mother of the
bridegroom, so we will all pass in under her protection. (The mother
of the bride is not in evidence on these occasions, being supposed to
be overwhelmed with grief at losing her daughter.) The "table" is the
ground, so we must gracefully (?) sit on our heels. On the "table" are
over two hundred different dishes--pillaus, chillaus, chicken, kabobs,
vegetables, fruits--all laid out in tempting array. The hostess having
pronounced the Moslem benediction, "Bismi'llah" (In the name of God),
all the guests fall to work in real earnest: very little talking is
done, eating being the business of the moment. Spoons and forks were
provided for me, but I preferred to do as they did, and so ate with
my fingers, though it requires a good deal of practice to do it neatly
and gracefully. As a mark of respect and honour, the hostess from time
to time breaks off pieces of meat from her portion and places them
on my plate, and once as a special mark of favour placed a dainty
morsel of chicken in my mouth. I hope my readers have enjoyed their
dinner as much as I have, for to my mind a Persian feast is a most
delectable entertainment.
After dinner we all washed our hands in a basin brought round for
the purpose, the water being poured from an ewer on to our hands by a
servant. Then we all retired to our reception-room of the morning, and
again tea and sherbet were handed round, and the kalian or water-pipe
was much in request, each lady taking a whiff and passing the long
tube to her neighbour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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