I may here mention as a piece of recommendatory information to future
travellers, that the journey, of which these volumes are a memento,
was performed in an open English carriage, the back seat of which was
sufficiently roomy to accommodate three persons, leaving the front for
our books, maps and travelling comforts, and the box for our courier
and a postillion; and that except upon mountain roads, we made the
entire tour of Belgium, Rhenish Prussia, and Germany, from Bavaria to
Hanover, with a pair of horses. For such a journey, no construction
of carriage that I have seen is equal to the one which we used, a
britscka, with moveable head, and windows which rendered it perfectly
close at night or during rain.[1] I have not made a minute calculation
as to expenses, but even on the score of economy, I am inclined to
think this mode of travelling, for three persons and a servant, will
involve _less actual outlay_ than the fares of diligences, and Eil
Wagens or Schnell posts. In Belgium, our posting, with two horses,
including postillions, fees and tolls, did not exceed, throughout,
elevenpence a mile; in Prussia, ninepence; and in Bavaria, even less.
Besides the perfect control of one’s own time and movements, is a
positive source of economy, as it avoids expense at hotels, while
waiting for the departure of stages and public conveyances, after
the traveller is satisfied with his stay in the place where he may
find himself, and is anxious to get forward to another. Between the
advantages gained in this particular, and the means of travelling
comfortably at night almost without loss of sleep, through some of
the sandy and uninteresting plains of northern Germany, I am fully of
opinion that our English carriage, independently of its comparative
luxury, not only diminished the expense of our journey, but actually
added some weeks to its length, within the period which we had assigned
for our return. In Belgium, however, and Saxony where railroads are
extensively opened, a carriage affords no increase of convenience, on
the contrary, in _short stages_, which should be avoided, it will be
found to augment the expense without expediting the journey.
Ostend presents but a bad subject for the compilers of guide books,
as it does not possess a single “lion,” nor a solitary object, either
of ancient or modern interest, for the tourist. Its aspect too is
unsatisfactory, it is neither Dutch, French, nor Flemish, but a mixture
of all three, and its houses with Dutch roofs, Flemish fronts, and
French interiors, are painted all kinds of gaudy colours, red, green
and blue, and covered with polyglot sign boards, announcing the nature
of the owner’s calling within, in almost all the languages of Northern
Europe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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