We left Ostend for Bruges by the railroad, sending forward our carriage
to Ghent. The fare for the entire distance is little more than for
one half, the trouble of mounting and dismounting, being the same for
the longer as for the shorter stage. The arrangements of the railroad
differ in no essential particular from those of England, except that
every passenger’s luggage is more scrupulously examined and charged for
extra weight, after which, it is taken from the custody of the owner,
who receives a ticket, on the production of which, it is delivered up
to him, on reaching the town for which his place has been secured.
This system, however, is found to be productive of frequent mistakes
and confusion, from trunks and portmanteaus being sent beyond their
destination, or left behind altogether. The conductors and officials
are all arrayed in uniform, and the starting of the train from each
station is announced by a few notes of a trumpet. The engines are
chiefly of English manufacture, with the exception of a few made at
Liege.
Belgium is of all countries in Europe the best calculated for
railroads; its vast alluvial plains, hardly presenting a perceptible
inequality. From Ostend to Ghent, I scarcely noticed a single cutting
or an embankment, the rails being laid upon the natural surface of
the ground, and the direction as straight as the flight of an arrow,
without the necessity of a curve or inclination, except to approach
some village station on the road.
The old mode of conveyance by the Trekschuit, on the Canal de Bruges,
though not discontinued, is comparatively deserted for the railroad. It
is, however, by no means disagreeable, the boats being drawn along at
the rate of nearly six miles an hour, the accommodation excellent and
unique, and the only drawback, the effluvia which in summer arises from
the almost stagnant waters of the canal, occasionally heightened by the
poisoned streams in which flax had been steeped by the farmers, which
is instantly fatal to the fish.
The air and general appearance of Bruges, on entering it by the
railroad, which passes direct into the centre of the town, cannot fail
to arrest the interest and attention of a stranger. It is unlike any
place that one has been accustomed to before, and is certainly the most
perfect specimen of a town of the middle ages on this side the Rhine.
Its houses have not been rebuilt in modern times, and with their ample
fronts, vast arched entrances and sculptured ornaments, and fantastic
gables, are all in keeping with our stately impressions of its feudal
counts and affluent but turbulent burghers. “Le voyageur,” says its
historian, M. Ferrier, “au milieu de ces vieux hôtels, de ces pierres
féodales encore debout, espère toujours qu’une noble dame au chaperon
de velours et au vertugadin élargi, va sortir des portes basses en
ogives le faucon au poign, la queue retroussée par un page.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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