The railroad from Bruges to Ghent, runs for the entire way within
view, and frequently along the bank of the canal which connects the
two cities, and which occasionally presents greater beauty than one
is prepared to expect; its waters folded over with the broad leaves
of the water lilly, and variegated with its flowers, and those of the
yellow bog bean; and its steep banks covered with the tassels of the
flowering rush. The road passed through numerous copses, cultivated
for firewood and planted with the oak, the chesnut and the weeping
birch, with here and there broad patches of firs and hornbeam. But the
beauty of the long lines of ornamental trees which enclose the road
and sometimes border the canals in Flanders, is much impaired by the
fashion of pollarding their tops for the purpose of fuel.
One misses, also, the numerous seats and mansions of the landed gentry
to which we are familiarized in travelling in our own country, “the
happy homes of England,” that constitute the rich luxuriance of a
British landscape. But here, their erection is discountenanced by the
law against primogeniture, by which the property of the individual is
compulsorily divided amongst his heirs; and, at former periods, their
absence may, perhaps, be ascribed to the insecurity of the country,
perpetually visited with war and all its accessories, so that men found
their only safety within the walls of their fortified towns. In the
neighbourhood of Ghent, however, they are more frequent than in any
other district of Belgium which I have seen, an evidence, perhaps, of
the more abundant wealth of its successful manufactures and merchants.
In the vicinity of all the villages and suburbs, each house is
provided with a garden, richly stocked with flowers, (amongst which
the multitude of dahlias was quite remarkable), and surrounded, not
by a fence, but more frequently, in gardens of any extent, by a broad
dyke of deep water, covered with lillies and aquatic plants. Every inch
of ground seemed to have been subjected to the spade, and with a more
than Chinese economy of the soil, made to contribute either to the
decoration or the support of the owner’s dwelling.
After passing the hamlets of Bloemendael (the valley of flowers),
and Aeltre, we came in sight of Ghent, situated on a considerable
elevation above the water of the Scheldt (pronounced _Skeld_), the Lys,
the Lieve, and the Moer, which meet around its base, and with their
communicating branches and canals, divide the city into six-and-twenty
islets, connected by upwards of eighty bridges of wood or stone.
Its towers and steeples are discernible for some miles before it is
reached, mingled with the tall chimnies of its numerous manufactories,
which mark it as the Manchester of Belgium.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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