The first sight of Brussels, on approaching it from the side of
Malines, is well calculated to give a favourable impression of its
beauty and extent, the long planted line of the Allée Vert, terminating
at the handsome gate d’Anvers, (formerly the Porte Guillaume, before
the change of dynasty), with its dark iron balustrade and gilded
capitals, and in front, the steep acclivity covered with streets and
buildings of the modern and more elegant town, whilst the turrets
of the Hôtel de Ville and the towers of St. Gudule are equally
conspicuous, rising above the roofs of the ancient city which nestles
at its base. The city itself, though of remote antiquity, has nothing
very antique in its first appearance, and, in fact, it is only in the
narrow alleys and passages of the lower quarter that the mansions
and municipal buildings of the former nobles and burghers of Brabant
are to be discerned. Even here there are fewer architectural traces
of the magnificence of the middle ages than in almost any other of
the great cities of Belgium. The Grand Place is a splendid exception
to this observation, as it is surrounded on all sides with lofty old
Spanish-looking houses, in the style, at least, if not of the date of
the palmy days of Brabant, its high peaked roofs bristling with tiers
of little grim windows, its pointed gables covered with bas-reliefs and
carvings, and the ample fronts of its mansions richly decorated with
arabesques in stone, which had once been gaudily coloured, and here and
there tipped with gold. On one side starts up to a surprising height
the gothic tower of the Hôtel de Ville, by far the most beautiful in
the Low Countries, and on the opposite one is a vast gloomy-looking
building, now converted into shops, which was once the _Maison
Communale_ of the city; and being rebuilt by the Infanta Isabella, in
the early part of the seventeenth century, was, in commemoration of the
deliverance of Brussels from the plague, dedicated to Notre Dame de la
Paix, with an inscription, which is still legible, though much defaced:
“_A peste, fame et bello libera nos Maria pacis_.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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