It is in the narrow and dingy passages of this lower town, that a
stranger feels all the associations of the olden time around him;
but on ascending by the steep and precipitous streets to the modern
quarter, with its light and beautiful houses, its open squares and
gardens, with their fountains and statues, and all that is French and
fashionable, the charm of association is gone, and one feels something
like coming suddenly into the daylight from the dim scenery of a
melodrame. To the stranger in Brussels there are, therefore, two
distinct sets of objects of attraction. In the new town there are the
palaces of the King and the nobles, the park, the public promenades,
the chambers of the Senate and the Commons, the splendid hotels of the
Place Royal, and the libraries and museums that occupy the château
which was once the residence of the Austrian viceroys; whilst in the
old town, there are the churches of the fourteenth and fifteenth
centuries, with their superb oak carvings, stained windows and
statuary, the Hôtel de Ville, the gloomy old mansions of the past race
of nobles, and all the characteristic memorials of the ancient capital.
The first are speedily disposed of by the tourist, as there is nothing
unique in any of the lions of Brussels, its inhabitants are, in fact,
anxious to have their city considered a miniature Paris, and it seems
to have been laid out altogether on the model of the French capital,
with its boulevards and its palace gardens, its opera, its restaurants
and its “café des milles colonnes.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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