An admirable regulation prevails throughout the entire of Germany with
regard to posting, which might, with the best effect, be introduced in
England, and without any government interference in the affair. Before
starting, the post master, who is an officer of the crown, delivers
to the traveller a printed form signed by himself, and specifying
the items of every charge for the stage he is setting out upon, the
distance, the number of horses, the mileage, and the tolls; this, if
erroneous, is corrected on the spot, and the stranger is thus freed
from all wrangling or apprehension of imposture. The posting tariff, at
the same time, regulates the “_trinkgelt_,” the fee of the postillion,
which is but five silver groschen, or six-pence for a German mile
containing four and two-thirds English; but this the traveller is
expected, though he must not be _solicited_ to exceed, provided he is
satisfied with the performance of his post-boy, and in general double
the amount, or at the utmost three-half-pence per mile will excite a
lively gratitude.
The face of the country, between Aix-la-Chapelle and the Rhine,
without being picturesque in any degree, is proverbially rich and
luxuriant, especially the ancient Duchy of Juliers, now extinguished,
which surrounds the fortified city of the same name. Every town and
village we passed through was but a congregation of agricultural
dwellings--every building was converted into a barn--and even from the
windows of some ruinous towers, we saw the projecting sheaves of the
early harvest, which had been already gathered in.
Juliers, where we breakfasted, is a fortified city, built in the midst
of an apparently swampy level, but so begirt and encompassed with
ramparts and fosses, that it is said to be impregnable to every assault
but that of starvation. We drove over drawbridges and under covered
ways without end; the passage winding from side to side, till it seemed
to issue in the opposite direction from that at which it entered the
side of the fortification, and we halted for an excellent breakfast
at a most unpromising inn, the “Drei Königen,” in the centre of the
town, which as Juliers is the highway to Dusseldorff and Cologne, was
beset by diligences and calèches of every conceivable shape and model.
Juliers has no trade, and its sole support seems to be the regular
victualling of a garrison of 3,000 Prussians, and the almost equally
regular reception of twice as many English tourists on wing to the
Rhine, or returning from it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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