The railroad took us to Antwerp, a distance of thirty-four miles, in
something more than an hour and a half. As usual the country lay as
level as a bowling-green, and now and then the line of the railway
intersecting the old paved highway, shewed on either side a vista
of elms and poplars, as straight as the flight of an arrow, and so
long that no opening was discernible in the distant perspective:
occasionally we flew past some Dutch looking country box, with its
red roof and whitened walls, its clipped hedges and grave looking
garden, with parterres of sunflowers and dahlias; and here and there
a grim little château, surrounded at each angle by a turret, like
a pepper-box, and covered by a tiled roof, as tall and as sharp as
the peaked hat of a burgomaster, seated in a coppice of alders and
firs, and looking as primitive and secluded as if the railroad were
the first visitant that had broken in upon its retirement from time
immemorial. One of these pompous little manor houses, at some distance
from the road between Malines and Brussels, was a residence of Rubens;
and another called the Dry Thoren or Three Towers, not far from it
at Perck, was the property of Teniers. The intention of the great
perpendicularity in the roofs, in the Low Countries, was to prevent
the lodgment of snow in their severe winters, and in the towns were
building ground was so extremely valuable, to obtain rooms for storing
fuel and other bulky articles, without trenching upon the space below.
The road between Malines and Antwerp, passes through the hamlet of
Rosendael, (the Vale of Roses) where there was formerly a rich abbey of
Cistercian monks. Duffill, a small manufacturing town, and a village
bearing the remarkable name of _Vieux Dieu_, from a pagan temple,
which is said to have been erected there at some remote period, and
the site of which is pointed out in a clump of elms, a “sacred grove,”
within which an altar is still erected on the occasion of any religious
procession in the parish. Approaching Antwerp, the surface of the land
becomes more uneven, much of it has been recovered from the rivers
which traverse it, and is sunk in deep rich _polders_, which the roads
traverse upon raised causeways. The agricultural toil seemed here to be
extensively shared by the women, who were busied in its most laborious
processes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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