Opposite the Cathedral, in the square, is a gothic screen of iron work,
which covers a fountain; tradition says it was made by Quentyn Metsys,
“the blacksmith of Antwerp,” an operative Cymon, who was converted
into an artist by the charms of a Flemish Iphigenia, whose father
consented to her marriage only when her lover had become a painter.
An inscription on a stone, near the great door of the Cathedral, which
enrols Metsys as a “pictor incomparabilis artis,” acknowledges the
obligation of the arts to the attractions of his mistress.
“Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem.”
The body of the church within is of immense extent, so great, indeed,
that our cicerone ventured to say it was five hundred feet in length,
and half that in breadth at the transepts. The gothic arcades, which
separate the nave from the side aisles are of prodigious height, and
with the innumerable pillars that support the organ and surround the
choir, the coup-d’œil, at entering, presents quite a forest of columns;
“these, and the dim religious light,” falling upon the monuments
around, from lofty windows emblazoned with armour, and the effigies
of ancient ecclesiastics; and streaming downwards from the richly
painted dome give an air of solemnity to the whole as striking, though
by no means so magnificent, as Westminster Abbey. Before the period
of the French revolution, and whilst Antwerp was still the seat of a
bishopric, (it is now appended to the see of Malines), the Cathedral
was one of the richest in Europe, abounding in altars of marble,
candelabra of silver, paintings, statues, and jewels, which were all
despoiled or destroyed by the followers of reason. Among them was an
_ostensoir_ for holding the holy elements of the host, in massive gold,
which had been a gift from Francis I. The treasury is still abundantly
supplied with donations of a similar kind, though of less intrinsic
cost perhaps, and its innumerable chapels, with their altarpieces
and ornaments, its sumptuous choir, and astonishing carved pulpit by
Verbruggen, covered with allegories and quaint devices, form a scene
which is remarkably imposing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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