The town itself has nothing else to shew, except its tall gaunt-looking
old houses, crowded into narrow lanes and passages, the dullness of
which is only relieved by the showy windows of its shops, shining with
cutlery and polished brass work, the staple trade of Namur. It divides
this manufacture with Gembloux, a little town, a few miles to the
north, which is as famous for the coarser articles of “Sheffield ware,”
as Namur is for the finer. The prosperity of the trade, however, has
been declining ever since 1814, when Belgium not only lost the French
market, but the protection of the French douaniers to protect her own
from being invaded by the English; her decline was consummated by
losing, in addition, the supply of the Dutch colonies, by the events of
“the glorious days” of September 1830, and the entire of the workmen
now engaged at Namur, do not exceed one thousand. Cheapness is of
course their grand aim, and some penknives which we bought surprisingly
low, we speedily discovered, like Peter Pindar’s cutlery to be “made
_for sale_.”
The Athenæum of Namur has attained some celebrity by the chair of
geology, which was established by the King of Holland, and for the
study of which, the rocky ravines and valleys of the environs present
abundant opportunities.
The Hotel de Harscamp is excellent, and after a most comfortable night,
disturbed only by the thundering moans of a most inopportune réveille,
rung, from the bells of the church hard by, every night at _eleven_,
and every morning at _four_ o’clock; we started, before breakfast the
following morning for Huy and Liege, along the descent of the Meuse.
The same delightful scenery accompanied us, which we had overtaken
the evening before on descending to Namur. On either side, high,
beetling cliffs of limestone and basalt, in every crevice of which,
spring the hardy roots of the little mountain ash, now covered with
its ruby berries, and from every crag, luxuriant creepers hung down
their “lush of leaves,” which the early frost was already beginning to
tinge with crimson. Every spot that could afford soil for the roots of
a tree, was covered with waving foliage, and into the rich recesses of
the cliffs ran up little velvety meadows from the verge of the river,
in which were nestled some of the most beautiful and romantic villas
and chateaux. Occasionally, on the summit of the steep ravine, in the
distance, were perched the buildings of a suppressed convent, or the
ruins of some feudal castle; and the very limestone rock itself, worn
into fantastic shapes by the weather, not unfrequently presented all
the features of a fortress, jutting out over the river below it. The
road ran along a broad, rich plain, intersected by the river, with
fruit-trees planted along the hedge-rows, and yellow crops of corn
which had not yet been severed. The boats were already on the river,
and innumerable cars and waggons were toiling along the road, laden
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